Middle East – y Travel Blog https://www.ytravelblog.com Learning how to travel more and create better memories Mon, 14 Aug 2023 18:46:33 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 https://www.ytravelblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/cropped-yTravel-logo-favicon-32x32.png Middle East – y Travel Blog https://www.ytravelblog.com 32 32 13 best Things To Do In Oman, Middle East https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-do-in-oman/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-do-in-oman/#comments Tue, 08 Nov 2022 06:00:00 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=62693 13 best Things To Do In Oman, Middle East Read More »

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Ahh, the Sultanate of Oman. Just the name of this country transports you to an exotic ancient place full of jewels, deserts, souk markets, and Sinbad-like characters.

The country is reveling in history, ancient traditions, stunning mosques, and a deep connection with nature. As more and more people looking to travel off the beaten path, Oman is gaining popularity amongst travelers.

And for good reason. Not only is Oman a very safe country to travel in, but there are tons of things to do in Oman, from exploring mountains, canyons, beaches, wildlife, history, and architecture.

But if you’re not sure what top attractions in Oman to add to your itinerary, then don’t sweat (save that for Oman!). In this guide, we’ve listed everything you’ll want to do in Oman plus a few hidden gems.

Top Things to Do in Oman

Ready to explore the Middle East? Then go and pack your bags! It’s time to show you the top things to do in Oman!

1. Discover the wildlife – especially nesting sea turtles

Experience the wildlife - things to do in Oman

One of the highlights of any trip to Oman is to admire the green turtles nesting on the beach and making their way back to the sea just before sunrise.

Their effort to find the perfect spot to lay their eggs and then slide back to the sea is admirable. They are really not meant to be on land. And if you are lucky you could even spot babies hatching and trying to make it to the ocean.

The Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve offers this experience every morning. Book in advance as it is a nature reserve and access is limited.

Other wildlife activities include snorkeling or scuba diving in the Daymaniyat islands or chasing the elusive Arabian leopard. You can also see dolphins in their natural habitat off the shores of Muscat.

Love being on the water? Then check out these snorkeling tours of the Daymaniyat Islands!

2. Admire the Stunning Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

See the architecture - top things to do in Oman

Built between 1995 and 2011, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is a breathtaking piece of Islamic architecture. Located in the flat area of Muscat the building, its garden, and 5 minarets stand out in the landscape.

You can explore the outside with the long corridors full of mosaics and arches, or admire the decor of the main prayer room with the 21-ton hand-woven carpet. It is also home to a magnificent chandelier: 14 meters in height, 8 meters in diameter, 1122 light bulbs, and 600,000 crystals!

Another jewel of Omani architecture and technical mastery is the Muscat Opera House with its wooden decor and state-of-the-art sound setup.

3. Learn About The History of Oman at Nizwa fort

Experience the history of Oman at places like Nizwa Fort

Selecting the best fort in Oman is not so easy. There are many and several of them are similar.

One of the most famous is the Nizwa fort and castle. You can even climb to the top of the 34-meter-high tower for great views of the city. The Souq around the castle is a local meeting point making the visit interesting on many levels.

Built at the beginning of the 17th century, it took 12 years to complete. The Omani government does a great job of restoring and maintaining it. Most rooms have displays showing visitors how people used to live and how the fort was protected.

4. Visit Unesco World Heritage sites in Oman

Experience the Unesco World Heritage sites of Oman

The Sultanate of Oman has 4 sites on the Unesco World Heritage List (as of 2016). The most famous is the Aflaj irrigation system, which can be seen in many old villages.

Other fascinating sites are the necropolises of Bat and Al-Ayn. At Ay-Ayn, the beehive tombs are aligned on a ridge with amazing scenery. Built by nomads, they are evidence of life during the Bronze Age in the Omani region.

5. Play on The Oman Beaches

The beaches in Oman

Oman has a great variety of beaches: the classic flat stretches of sand, the coves between mountains, and others surrounded by desert.

North of Muscat, Al-Sawadi beach is covered with shells. And at low tide, you can cross to the Sawadi fort located on an island. It is a favorite for locals on the weekend.

6. Explore The Mountains and Oman’s Grand Canyon

The mountains in Oman

But more than its beaches, Oman is famous for its mountains, especially the areas of Jebel Akhdar (the Green Mountain) and Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in Oman and part of the Al Hajar Mountain Range.

The latest is a top destination for tourists as it is home to Oman’s Grand Canyon.

The deep rift, next to the 3000-meter high mountains, has vertical cliffs dropping over 1000 meters. A hike on a balcony walk is definitively not for travelers with vertigo.

Want to see the Grany Canyon of Oman? Here’s a day tour to check out!

7. Swim in the Wadis of Oman

Visit these Wadis in Oman

Another one of the most famous things to do in Oman is to go deep into the wadis. Wadis are like an oasis in the desert. They are a valley or gorge that is often dry, except for the rainy season when they are full of glistening rivers and waterfalls you can swim in.

The most famous is Wadi Shab and Wadi Bani Khalid. If you only have time for one, I recommend visiting Wadi Shab.

It’s accessed by a 45-minute hike and is only accessible on foot. Soon, you’ll find the valley gets narrow and here you’ll find the glistening water that you can swim in. You’ll find a cave with a waterfall, whilst being surrounded by stunning limestone cliffs.

You’ll have to do some walking and climbing over boulders, but that’s all part of the adventure. The turquoise waters contrast with the white of the cliffs and rocks and its a nature spot you’ll never forget.

8. Explore The Deserts of Oman

Experience the deserts of Oman

Considering its location on earth, most of Oman is covered by desert, the largest one being the Empty Quarter.

The most visited one, however, is Wahiba Sands. Located only 3 hours away from the capital city, its longitudinal sand dunes cover 180km of land from North to South. Permanent camps have been set up for tourism but wild camping is also permitted if you feel more adventurous. As always sand dunes offer wonderful sunrises and sunsets.

As you can see, you will be amazed every day on a trip to Oman.

9. Relax on the Mutrah Corniche

boats on the harbor in Oman

The Muttrah Corniche is a stunning promenade in Muttrah and one of the most popular places to visit in Oman. It stretches along the harbor and has many stunning gardens, water features and fountains, artistic sculptures, and incredibly scenic views of the city.

If you’re looking for more relaxing things to do in Oman or free things to do in Oman, then wandering along the Muttrah Corniche has to be one of the best.

Pack a picnic and enjoy the sunset from this pristine spot.

10. Get Lost in Mutrah Souq Market

people wandering through a souk market
Photo Credit: Flickr

You cannot visit the Middle East without venturing into a souk market. These are centuries-old, traditional markets selling everything from clothing, scarves, jewelry, spices, and more.

The Mutrah Souq is one of the longest-running and most traditional bazaars in Oman. It has an old-fashioned interior and sells everything local and antique.

This is the best place to pick up souvenirs to take home. If you’re not sure what things to buy in Oman, I highly recommend picking up some gold or silver jewelry since these metals are found here, it’s slightly cheaper than buying in the west.

Or, pick up some incense. Frankincense is going to be the aroma you smell the most on your trip, so take some home to remember it by!

11. Explore the Capital City of Muscat

beauitful arched hallway in the Royal Opera House Muscat
Royal Opera House Muscat

If you’re visiting Oman, the likelihood is that you will venture into its bustling capital city at some point. Don’t use it as a gateway, spend some time exploring the city and checking out the gorgeous architecture and culture here.

Since it’s the capital, it’s the most populated city in Oman and a great place to immerse yourself in the culture. The city is packed with bazaars and souks, plus it’s on the coast so you’ll find some of the best seafood in the country here.

One of the top things to do in Muscat is to check out the Royal Opera House Muscat, which is a stunning example of Islamic-Italianate architecture. The complex sits right by the water and has a concert theater and gardens.

12. Take a Musandam Fjords Dhow Cruise

dolphin jumping out ot the water in front of boat at the Musandam Fjords

The Musandam Fjords is a stunning area of natural beauty that lies off the coast of Oman. The mountainous Omani peninsula is separated from Oman by the UAE, but it still remains part of Oman’s territory.

Its coastline resembles a fjordlike inlet which is known as khors in Arabic. It’s possible to see dolphins and other marine life in the waters here, and it’s a popular place to go snorkeling and enjoy some water sports.

Because of its location, it’s only accessible by boat trip. You’ll get to board a local ‘dhow’ boat, which sails around the stunning vistas and waters.

13. Check Out The Empty Quarter

car driving through the orange desert of the Empty Quarter

Although the name sounds ominous, the Empty Quarter is actually a top thing to see in Oman. Otherwise known as Rub al Khali, which is its name in Arabic, is an expansive sea of desert that stretches across the Arabian peninsula, through Oman, Saudi Arabia, Yemen, and the UAE – needless to say, it’s pretty huge.

In fact, it’s the largest uninterrupted stretch of desert in the world.

The desert has been featured in many Hollywood blockbusters such as Star Wars, so you can pack your pretend lightsabers and live out your sci-fi fantasies here.

The desert is sparse in life, and only a few nomadic tribes travel across the harsh environment. But if you want to, you can even choose to camp in the desert!

Tips for Visiting Oman

Before you start booking your attractions in Oman and planning your itinerary, we have just a few words of advice before you visit:

  • Oman is hot, all year round. Make sure you wear lose fitting clothing and drink plenty of water.
  • Oman is a deeply religious Arabic country and therefore it’s quite conservative. Put the hot pants and crop tops away for this trip. Dress conservatively and have your knees and shoulders covered.
  • You do not need to wear a headscarf as a woman, but pack a headscarf with you as you’ll need to wear one to enter places of worship.
  • Alcohol is only usually found in hotels and resorts, but don’t go crazy on the booze. They are not fond of alcohol so won’t appreciate you slurring how much you love them.

Before You Go

So there you have it, those are the top things to do in Oman, and as you can see, there’s quite a big selection of amazing attractions!

Oman is full of history, rich culture, and some incredible places to visit.

But before you go, make sure you have your accommodation booked in advance. There is not a huge selection of hostels, apartments, and hostels, so make sure you are well prepared to make sure you have somewhere to stay.

To see more information about these attractions and locations, and for more things to do in Oman, visit the Oman Travel Guide.

Looking for more destinations in the Middle East? Caroline recently traveled to Jordan and loved it. You can find all her Jordan travel tips here.

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39 Things to Know before you Travel to Jordan https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-know-travel-to-jordan/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-know-travel-to-jordan/#respond Tue, 01 Nov 2022 16:10:00 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=142485 39 Things to Know before you Travel to Jordan Read More »

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Thinking about visiting Jordan? Then you wouldn’t be wrong to do so, the country is incredible!

Jordan is a fascinating country full of unique global attractions, ancient history, delicious food, warm hospitable people, and endless adventure.

A trip to Jordan will surpass all of your expectations. People raved about it to me, and when I finally visited in 2022, I raved about it to others – including y’all!

bagpipe player south theater of jerash
With the bagpipe player in Jerash

If you’re planning to travel to Jordan, there are some important things that you should know first. There are a lot of cultural, religious, and general planning considerations you need to consider.

For this guide on things to know before you travel to Jordan, I’ve broken it into sections on several topics such as why visit Jordan, culture and etiquette, travel logistics, and food and drink.

So if you’re ready to explore the Wadi Rum and Petra, read on for essential travel tips for Jordan!

Fast Facts of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan:

petra trails jordan flag
  • Capital City: Amman 4.5 mil
  • Currency: Jordanian Dinar (JD)
  • Rulers: Constitutional monarchy with two legislative houses. King Abdullah II is head of state
  • Religion: Muslim-majority, but Christians, Jews and people of various beliefs coexist peacefully here.
  • Language: Arabic, but English is quite widely spoken, especially in the cities and tourist areas. 
  • The majority of Jordanians are Arabs, having descended from Arabia. 

What Makes Jordan Unique?

You might be on the fence about visiting Jordan, and that’s ok. But allow me to sway your opinion…here are some top reasons to visit Jordan.

It Has Centuries of Fascinating History

giant sculpture of hercules fingers at the Citadel
The Citadel, Amman

The history of Jordan is long and rich stretching from the paleolithic era through the ancient Nabateans and biblical times to the current Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. The capital city, Amman is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities with a history spanning nine millennia!

History lovers will be impressed with the plethora of experiences in Jordan that help tell these stories.

You See Top Global Attractions, Wonders of the World, and UNESCO Heritage Sites

woman sitting on bench looking at ancient remains of cave building monastery cafe jordan
The Monastery Petra

It’s a small country, but Jordan packs in some of the best attractions in the world. 

  • Most well-known is the ancient city of Petra, a UNESCO world Heritage site AND New Wonders of the World. 
  • Wadi Rum Protected Area is a desert canyon and UNESCO site popular for desert safaris and Bedouin experiences. 
  • The ancient city of Jerash is considered one of the best-preserved Roman-era cities in the world.
  • The Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth, and 8% richer in Oxygen, and full of wonderful minerals for your body. It’s so salty you can float on it. Be sure to slather your body in that free and nutrient-rich Dead Sea mud! 

Plus there are many …..

Experience Unique Holy Land Experiences

people standing at the place where jesus was pabtized
The place where Jesus was baptized

Many people visit Jordan on a  Holy Land pilgrimage… The Holy Land is an area of the Middle East where events of the Bible happened. 

In Jordan, you’ll find the:

  •  famous Madaba Mosaic Map, which was created in the 6th Century to help Pilgrims find their way around the Holy Land.
  • Mount Nebo is a historical sight of huge religious significance. It’s the place where Moses looked out over the Promised Land of Canaan.
  • Bethany Beyond the Jordan is where Jesus was baptized by St John the Baptist. Multiple sources prove that this was the exact place pilgrims traveled for thousands of years to honor Jesus, St John, and the beginnings of Christianity. 

Jordanians are friendly and hospitable

Bedouin men wearing red scarves laughing in the wAdi rum desert
Our host with Osama, our guide

I fell in love with the people on my first transfer ride from the airport with Khalid. During our 40-minute drive he taught me a lot about the history and culture of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (through a fun game format). You can read more about that here.

The same warm interactions continued throughout the Jordan trip, even with the two young men in the shawarma shop, who attempted to understand the ineffective Google translate for “I can’t eat gluten.”

Try to speak to the locals as you travel through Jordan – even sit down to tea with them – and hire local Jordan tour guides, who are a wealth of knowledge on culture and history.

You can also seek out experiences like homestay dinners with local Jordanians like we did with this Bedouin family in Petra.

Jordan is quite a liberal country

street art jordan
Amman street art depicting equality – showing man and woman as one.

You may be surprised to learn that Jordan is quite an open-minded and liberal country, probably the most in the Arab world. Their constitution allows for freedom of press and free speech HOWEVER, you can’t speak bad about the Royal family – as that will land you in jail!

The Jordanian government takes good care of its citizens offering free and high-quality education and healthcare.

They also take great care of their large population of refugees, consisting of forced migrants from Palestine, Iraq, Lebanon, and Syria.

I was surprised by the many conversations I had with locals at how accepting they were of other religious beliefs and nationalities. However, there are still some topics that are sensitive, one in particular, is the strained relations with Israel.

Always be open-minded and respectful with conversations – curiosity not judgment.

Things to Know Before Visiting Jordan

Jordanian women talking and laughing
The women of Beit Khairat Souf

So now you are well and truly clued up about why Jordan is worth visiting. Let’s take a look at the practical things you should know before a trip to Jordan. Beginning with…

What do I need to Travel to Jordan?

Before we go into some tips for traveling in Jordan, let’s quickly discuss what you need to get to Jordan.

Getting to Jordan

How you get to Jordan depends on where you are coming from. You can get to Jordan from almost any country on a daily basis, however, flights may not be direct.

The main airport in Jordan is Queen Alia International Airport.

I flew into Queen Alia on Qatar Airways. My route was Raleigh, North Carolina to JFK, to Doha (Qatar) to Amman. It took about 24 hours altogether.

There are also overland border crossings from Israel and Egypt.

Visa

the crumbling remains and columns of zeus temple jerash
The Temple of Zeus in Jerash

In general, most international visitors require a visa in order to enter Jordan.

  • If you are traveling to Jordan for less than one month can obtain a Single-Entry Visa upon arrival at the airport or border crossing. Costs around 40 JD (56 USD).
  • A Double Entry visa must be purchased in advance from your local Jordanian embassy. It allows you stay in Jordan for up to three months. costs around 60 JD (85 USD).
  • A Multiple Entry Visa allows you to stay up to 6 months in Jordan with multiple entries. Purchase in advance. The visa costs 120 JD (170 USD).

You MUST check the procedure for your nationality as it can vary! Also, check on prices as they can change and exchange rates fluctuate. That’s your due diligence!

Travel Insurance

jerash theater amman
The ancient city of Jerash

Travel insurance is the first thing we purchase before booking a trip so we’re protected should something go wrong while we’re waiting for our trip to begin!

The world is far too uncertain at the moment to take the risk of losing your travel investment AND having to pay more should something unfortunate happen. Thankfully travel insurance can be really affordable.

We are ambassadors for Allianz Travel Insurance and recommend them for your travel insurance plans. Consider their OneTrip Prime and OneTrip Premier travel insurance plans for a ton of Smart-Benefits.

We personally have an annual plan as we’re frequent travelers.

The free Allianz TravelSmart™ App makes it easy to manage your Allianz Travel Insurance plan on the go. It also has features to help you track flights, get updates about events that may impact your travels, and handy emergency numbers for the destination you are traveling to.

Here is a handy guide on what to know before buying travel insurance and things you may not have know about travel insurance.

This Jordan travel tips post is sponsored by Allianz Travel Insurance and all opinions and advice are our own.

The Jordan pass

crumbling remains of Petra City
Petra City

If visiting a few of the top attractions in Jordan, consider the Jordan Pass. It gives you access to more than forty attractions including the Roman Theater, Jerash, and the Citadel mentioned in this post on things to do in Amman.

If you purchase the pass before arrival and stay for a minimum of 3 nights, the pass will be waiving any tourist entry visa fees. Visit the official website to find the right Jordan Pass package for you.

It isn’t an official card or ticket, but a QR code and PDF. This means you must purchase it before you arrive to allow time for the pass to arrive in your emails.

Once you receive your pass, you get access to over 40 attractions including the Wadi Rum, Amman Citadel, Jordan Archeological Museum, and Petra.

The Basic Jordan pass costs 70 JD. Easy math will tell you what a great deal it is when The Jordan visa-on-arrival costs 40 JOD, and a 1-day pass for Petra costs 50 JOD.

Culture and Etiquette

Who are the Bedouins?

Bedouin men sitting around fire talking
Bedouin

Bedouin comes from the word, badawī which means desert dwellers. Bedouin territory stretches from the vast deserts of North Africa to the rocky sands of the Middle East.

Bedouin tribes are thought to have come to Jordan from the Arabian Peninsula as early as the 14th century. 

The Bedouins live in brown or black colored tents made from goat hair. As nomads they tend to move every 3 to 4 months. 

Camels are an important part of Bedouin life, as a source of food, transport, and a sign of wealth. 

riding a camel in wadi rum
Wadi Rum camel ride

Wadi Rum desert is where most travelers visit for Bedouin experiences. You can ride camels and visit a Bedouin camp. 

We took a short 20-minute ride to a Bedouin camp. When we arrived, a group of robed Bedouin men brewed us sage tea over an open fire and Osama shared more with us about their lifestyle.

A Bedouin family invited us to their open fire near the tent where they demonstrated how they cooked two types of bread – one thick and one thin – while we stood in the glow of the afternoon light deepening the colors and textures of the surrounding red rocks.

Wearing a Bedouin scarf

woman wearing Bedouin scarf in desert smiling at camera
Happy in Jordan

A very popular thing to do when visiting Wadi Rum, the home of the Bedouins, is to wear the red and white checkered Bedouin scarf.

The Bedouins are accepting of tourists wearing their head scarves. I recommend you do it. They look beautiful and are very comfortable and will offer some protection from the desert heat.

Our guide, Osama, taught us how to tie up the scarf.

Men typically wear the black ring to hold the scarf in place. As Osama told us, “if a woman wears the black ring it’s like a woman with a mustache.”

What should you wear in Jordan?

back door hike into petra

Even though Jordan is a more liberal Middle Eastern country, there is still an expectation to dress respectfully.

Women should wear loose-fitting clothing and avoid low-cut and shoulder-baring tops, short skirts, and shorts. There is no law requiring women to wear hijab but they may need to cover their hair, chest, and neck in places of worship, as well as knees and shoulders (for men and women).

Jeans are okay for women to wear, especially in Amman and big cities. And women in our group also wore leggings on occasion. It might be best to cover up with long shirts and jackets. 

Know the weather for the time you are traveling. I traveled at the end of February, which means cooler weather. Yes! I also thought Jordan was desert hot year-round.

Be prepared for travel during Ramadan

Ramadan is a holy month of fasting, introspection, and prayer for Muslims, held in the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The dates change each year so look up Ramadan times before you visit

Ramadan will impact your Jordan travel as almost all cafes and restaurants nationwide will stay closed until sunset. You’ll be able to eat in the big hotel restaurants. When you do eat, it’s important to stay out of sight in respect for locals who are fasting.

It is illegal for alcohol to be sold for this month – possibly ok in 5-star restaurants. But check current regulations as they can change. 

NO PDAs in Jordan

two women smiling at camera
Ameena’s home dinner

Jordanians greet each other often with hugs and kisses. This is considered acceptable personal interactions.

However, Jordanians will frown upon public displays of affection with a romantic partner.

Also, be aware, that Jordanian women may not want to have their photo taken alone with a man. Ameena in the photo above politely declined a photo with one of the men from our group. This could also be the same for a Jordanian man to have a photo with a foreign woman. Be aware of these cultural sensitivities.

LGBTQ is not criminalized but frowned upon

For any gay and lesbian travelers thinking of visiting Jordan, you’ll be pleased to know that Jordan is one of the few Middle Eastern countries where being gay is not criminalized and hasn’t been since 1951.

However, this does not mean you should draw attention to yourself. The LGBTQ community still receives prejudice and discrimination challenges, and the same rule of PDA applies.

In fact, homosexual displays of affection can be prosecuted for “disrupting public morality.”

English is widely spoken

The official language of Jordan is Arabic; however, most Jordanians speak English, especially in cities. If you’re ever unsure about where to go, you can always ask in English.

However, it’s always polite to learn a few simple phrases in the local language. Here are a few simple phrases you can learn:

  • Hello / Welcome – Salam / Marhaba
  • Thank you – Choukran
  • No thank you – La choukran
  • Excuse me – Afwan / min fadlak
  • Goodbye – Ma’asalama
  • Yes / No – Na’am / La

Travel Logistics

Is Jordan safe?

city street
Downtown Amman

Many people have the misconception that Jordan is not safe because it’s situated in a region with a long history of conflict. Israel lies at its western border, Iraq at its eastern border, and Syria to the north.

Most countries advise against all but essential travel near Jordan’s borders with Syria and Iraq.

Apart from that, Jordan is a safe country to travel in. It’s more like the Switzerland of the Middle East. Politically it is a very stable country and violent crime is very rare.

Of course, as with any country you visit, use common sense, trust your instincts, and don’t put yourself in precarious situations.

But do not be afraid to travel to Jordan. I did not feel unsafe or afraid once.

When is the best time to visit Jordan?

person floating on dead sea
Floating on the Dead Sea

The best time of year to visit Jordan is either spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November) when the weather is very pleasant with warm days and pleasant evenings.

If you are not used to high summer temperatures, the summer months may be best avoided. 

I recommend considering traveling in Jordan during the off-season i.e. winter. Our Globus Escape Tour of Jordan was in February.

Not only was it more affordable, it meant we weren’t dealing with crowds, especially at the extremely popular Petra. It was a wonderful time. 

It was cooler, and we had one day of rain (which is quite rare), but it wasn’t uncomfortable. It was warm enough even for me to swim in the Dead Sea. 

You could get some chilly days though so be prepared.

What is the weather like?

man walking in the desert with dark skies
A moody day at Bethany Beyond the Jordan

You may think Jordan is hot year-round as it’s located in the desert, but Jordan can get quite cold, especially at night.

From November to February temperatures can hover in the single digits (Celsius) during the day and drop to freezing at night. They can sometimes even get snow. While it doesn’t rain a great deal, it can, and it did on our last day in Jordan.

I was worried it may have been too cold in Jordan during the winter, but the weather was pleasant for most of the trip. We even ended up with slight tans after a day in the warm desert sun in Petra. 

In fact, I couldn’t imagine how uncomfortably hot it would be during the peak summer season, which is between May and September.

How long do you need in Jordan?

views of the promised land from mt nebo
views of the promised land from Mt Nebo

Jordan is almost the same size as Portugal and the state of Maine in the USA. It’s only a four hour’s drive from Amman in the north to Aqaba in the south, so you can fit in a fair amount in a short time. 

But, as I’ve mentioned it is filled with incredible adventures, attractions, and experiences, so enough time is needed to give them justice.

We recommend at least 5-7days to travel Jordan. I think 10 to 14 days would be optimal.

What are the best things to see in Jordan?

A view of a desert
The gorgeous Wadi Mujib

The highlights for any person traveling to Jordan would be

  1. The Ancient City of Petra
  2. The Dead Sea
  3. Wadi Rum Desert
  4. Hiking in Wadi Mujib – The Grand Canyon of Jordan
  5. Bethany Beyond the Jordan – baptismal site of Jesus
  6. Mount Nebo
  7. Madaba Archaeological Park & Museum
  8. The Ancient Roman City of Jerash
  9. Amman (and the Ancient Citadel)
  10. Quseir Amra desert castle (UNESCO site_
  11. Kerack Castle
  12. Aqaba and the Red Sea

Accommodation in Jordan

view of turquoise water of Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort
View of the Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort

No matter your style or budget, Jordan has accommodations to suit.

You can stay in homestays with a Jordan family, B&Bs are available but not common, Bedouin-style camps in Wadi Rum, and 1-5 star hotels and resorts.

We stayed in three 4-star hotels on our trip.

All of them were excellent with amazing facilities, fantastic locations, comfortable and spacious rooms, and excellent customer service. 

 Most people base themselves in Amman, Madaba, the Dead Sea, Wadi Mousa (Petra), or Aqaba as their base and then visit the top Jordan attractions from there.

Getting Around Jordan

group of people sitting in the back of a pickup driving through Wadi Rum
Getting around Wadi Rum in a pick up is fun

Rental Cars

One of the best ways to get around Jordan is by driving your own rental car. Rental rates start at around $30 USD. Highways are in pretty good condition, you may have the odd speed bump, pothole, or camel crossing to navigate around. 

But it won’t be like driving in the USA or Australia, so pay attention to speed limits and be alert. 

Be mindful that while driving from city to city in Jordan is easy because the highways are well maintained, other drivers are your biggest danger. There is a speed limit, but no one follows it. Stay alert if you’re planning on driving in Jordan.

Want the best price for your car rental? In the 15+ years we’ve used RentalCars.com, we’ve never found a better price anywhere else. Plus, your booking can be cancelled or amended if your plans change. Click here to book your rental car in advance.

Taxis

Yellow taxis operate on a meter and are a cheap way to get around in Jordan. Be sure to ask the driver to turn the meter on.

Be aware that peak traffic time is 2pm-5pm which may make it difficult to find a taxi and will be a much slower and more expensive fare.

Taxis are even willing to take you to destinations several hours away.

Public Transportation

I did not experience getting around Jordan by bus, but from my research, it’s an affordable way of travel that’s best for those who have more time and patience. Buses will leave when full, so timetables don’t really matter or exist. You’ll have to turn up at the station and ask. 

Group Tours

group of people standing on a rusted pick up
Fun with my fellow Jordan tour group

You may find joining a group tour to be the easiest way of getting around. I enjoyed my group tour of Jordan with Globus Journeys

You get accommodation and transport covered with some meals and a local guide to ensure your experience is memorable, informative, and worry free. It helped me savor the experience with minimal effort. 

As a busy mother running her own business, I don’t get a lot of time to plan trips, so I loved having everything taken care of, including having someone pick me up from Amman airport, help me clear immigration and customs, take me to an ATM to get cash and drop me off at the hotel. I just had to pack my bag, show up, and have fun.

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Essentials to pack for Jordan

woman posing in front of the citadel ruins
  • Loose comfortable clothes practical for traveling
  • Head scarf – perfect for covering our head for cultural and religious reasons but also to protect from the sun AND warm you up if it’s cold.
  • Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen
  • Swimsuit. (I would choose a conservative swimsuit)
  • Water bottle
  • Layers if it’s cold including a waterproof jacket – may not need it but best to be safe
  • Comfortable walking shoes, particularly if you plan to do any hiking our adventurous activities. 
  • Plug adaptor
  • Shoes you can get wet (the bottom of the Dead Sea can be rocky so you may want to wear shoes)

NOTE: DRONES are not allowed in Jordan. You run the risk of having it confiscated at the airport/border. Drones are considered a security risk because of their proximity to the Israel border.

Power in Jordan

movenpick resprt petra lobby
Movenpick Petra Resort

In Jordan, the power plugs and sockets are of type C, D, F, G, and J. You will need a power plug travel adapter to suit these. The standard voltage is 230 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz.

You should not need a voltage converter if you are charging your phones, camera batteries, and laptop. But if you want to use something like your own hair dryer or electric shaver, you will damage them if you don’t have a converter. (always check your appliances)

My tip – leave them at home! It’s one less thing to worry about. You’ll find hair dryers in the hotels, and disposable shavers will do the job. I don’t travel with converters.

Finding Wi-Fi in Jordan

coffee bar inside rumi cafe amman
Cafes will have wi-fi

I don’t ever recommend using international roaming on your home phone when traveling. It’s a rip-off. Some US companies may offer it as part of their plans, in that case knock your socks off. Our provider, AT&T charges $10 a day and it rarely works properly.

You can easily get a local sim card in Jordan. You just need an unlocked mobile phone and a passport.

At Queen Alia International Airport, you will find a mobile phone shop on the main floor of the arrivals section. Zain is the main mobile phone company in Jordan and you can purchase a sim for as little as 9JD (12.50-13USD), which will include enough minutes, data and texts to last an entire month.

Even easier is buying an eSim card. You can get one for Jordan from Airola here. All you do is install the app, choose your destination and package, install the eSim and then activate it.

It’s only $6.50 for 1 GB data for 7 days, or $18 for 3 GB data for 30 days.

$6 – 18 USD for your entire trip or $10 a day? You do the math. I’d rather spend that money on Jordanian wine!

I did not have an unlocked phone, so made use of the free wi-fi in the hotels and on our Globus tour bus. You can often find free wifi in cafes, restaurants, and at tourist attractions. The connection will be better in big cities like Amman. 

 Also note, streaming and uploading to social video platforms like TikTok, YouTube, and Instagram Reels can chew up data. I understand posting your own stuff, but do you need to stream others when you are in such an exciting destination like Jordan.

Money & Costs

How much does it cost to travel to Jordan?

two girls covered in mud dead sea
Mudding up with friends at the Dead Sea

Jordan is an expensive country to visit. I found it quite on par with costs in the US. The Jordanian Dinar is also pretty strong, which will greatly affect your costs depending on what currency you use. 

And of course, it all depends on your spending style. Choices like eating local street food, getting around on local buses, and staying in 1-star hotels will reduce your costs. 

According to Budget your Trip,  the average daily cost of most visitors to Jordan is JOD86 ($122) per day. A trip to Jordan for two people for one-week costs on average JOD1,208 ($1,703)

 Accessing money in Jordan

In Jordan, you can use your credit card at most places, but always carry cash in case. ATM machines are available in most places but not in smaller towns.

Don’t visit Petra for one day (it’s more expensive)

the treasury and siq petra jordan
Yeah okay so that is a World Wonder!!

Petra can be an expensive Jordan attraction, but well worth it. There is so much more to see in Petra than the Treasury. I recommend you allow for at least two days to see Petra, especially if you want to do some hiking. To encourage tourists to stay longer, admission prices go down the longer you stay. 

If you spend the night in Jordan, the admission price is JD50 (70USD) a day in comparison to JD90 (127 USD) if you only visit for the day. 

It costs JD55 for two days, and only JD60 for three.

Read More: A Guide to Petra and the extraordinary back door hike

Do you need to tip in Jordan?

back door petra hike with guide
Our Petra guide, Abdullah

Like most countries outside of the USA, tipping is not mandatory, nor expected, but of course, always appreciated.

Tourism workers are generally paid lower wages, so do rely somewhat on tips. Larger restaurants may add on a 10% tip to the bill. 5-10% is a good rule of thumb for you to leave behind.

Historic tour guides -especially in Petra – will generally expect tips as well. Leave about 1-5JD.

Food & Drink

What is Jordanian food like?

lamb kofta jordanian food
Lamb Kofta

In a word. Delicious.

As we learned from Chef Maria at our Beit Sitti cooking class in Amman, the holy trinity for Arab cooking is lemon, tahini, and yogurt. You’ll also find herbs like sage, thyme, and mint in a wide variety of Middle Eastern dishes with quite a heavy focus on proteins.

Food is a communal eating experience, often done with hands, and a piece of bread in hand.

In Jordan, I was delighted to discover a cuisine that catered to my gluten-free requirements.

Even though I missed a few sticky sweets and warm pita straight from the oven to dip in oil and za’atar, I still felt compensated by the mouthwatering beef stews, lamb mansaf, upside-down chicken and rice, and fresh-from-the-garden salads. And pomegranate on everything!

man holding a tray of nachos
Enjoying goat mansaf at a home dinner

Here are a few other favorite foods from Jordan:

  • Foul Mudammas (fava beans) covered in spices and tahini
  •  Labneh (creamy yogurt) drizzled with local honey and topped with dried apricots, figs, and nuts
  • Halawa, a sweet filling treat made of sesame seed paste and flavored with nuts
  • Mutabal is baba ghanouj (most delicious when they roast the eggplant on the fire!)
  • Kunafeh, which is goat’s cheese, and topped with wheat and pistachio. sweet but not overpowering. When in Amman get one from here – it is the oldest in the city and is said to be the best.
  • Mansaf: national Jordanian dish, and it is a dish of meat (be it beef, lamb or chicken) cooked until fork-tender and coated in a rich yogurt sauce spiced with Baharat spices. Here is a mansaf recipe.

Vegetarians will have limited choices as many Jordanian dishes contain animal products, but there will still be options!

close up of kunafeh
Kunafeh

If dining with local Jordanians, be aware that not accepting food offerings can offend, so make room in your belly. Their generosity and hospitality extend to maximizing every spare inch of your stomach and more.

As with most Muslim countries, eating with hands is common, and etiquette is to eat with the right hand only, as the left is for toilet purposes. They will offer grace to foreigners!

You can read our friends at Uncornered Market’s post sharing more information on Jordanian dishes.

Can you drink the tap water in Jordan?

close up of green juice
Love these lemon mint juices

No. Tap water in Jordan is not drinkable. You can find bottles of water anywhere. 

A clever idea is to carry your own reusable filtration water bottle. It will allow you to safely drink water and travel with an eco-conscious intention (plus save you money)

This one by Grayl comes highly recommended for good filtration and removal. 

Make sure to drink plenty of water in Jordan, but don’t waste it as the country has a water shortage.

One of my other favorite Jordanian experiences was their refreshing lemon mint juices you could find everywhere – best taken with a view of The Monastery in Petra after a hot morning hike.

And tea is best taken with warm conversation!

Can you drink alcohol in Jordan?

YES! Alcohol is legal in Jordan. But it won’t be as prolific as you’ll find in Western countries – and it will have a much higher price tag as it’s taxed heavily.

Be mindful that you are traveling through a country that does not have a drinking culture, so consume in moderation.

FUN FACT: Jordan actually produces their own beer and wine! I had some Chardonnay while in Petra and was pleasantly surprised. 

FAQs About Travel to Jordan

woman standing in doorway of stone building in alley

Here’s what people usually ask us about visiting Jordan:

Is Jordan a tourist friendly country?

Yes, Jordan is a tourist-friendly country. The people are very hospitable and approachable. It’s easy to get around, but if you feel like you need help, you can ask almost anyone as English is widely spoken.

Is Jordan worth traveling?

Yes, absolutely! It’s history and attractions are unlike anywhere else in the world and the people are very friendly.

Is Jordan safe in 2022?

Yes, Jordan is safe to visit as a tourist. Tourists should stay away from the borders between Israel and Syria, but the political situation in Jordan is stable.

More Jordan Travel Tips:

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13 Outstanding Things to do in Amman, Jordan For History and Culture https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-do-in-amman-jordan/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/things-to-do-in-amman-jordan/#comments Sun, 07 Aug 2022 15:51:28 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=139298 13 Outstanding Things to do in Amman, Jordan For History and Culture Read More »

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Oh Gosh. I wish I had more time in Amman, Jordan. I knew at first glance out of my Uber window at the hills covered in limestone desert buildings that I was gong to love this place.

view of amman's hillsides covered in buildings
Amman, Jordan

No actually. The love started before that with my airport transfer ride with Khalid. During our 40-minute drive he taught me a lot about the history and culture of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (through a fun game format)  You can read more about that here.

We talked about Jordanian food, lifestyle, geography and religion, politics – two topics they typically say not to talk about, but this was a judgement free conversation for learning and understanding.

Khalid brought Amman to life as we navigated through the wadis and up and down the hills – or mountains as Khalid calls them – there are now over 20 of them in a city that long ago was build on seven hills just like Rome.

Amman is known as the City of Seven Hills, in reference to its history of Roman rule.

people standing at fruit stand in amman jordan

With a population of 4.5 million, the capital, Amman is Jordan’s largest city. It is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities with a history spanning nine millennia!

You’ll discover a fascinating mix of old and new neighborhoods made up of crumbling ruins, limestone desert buildings, and modern skyscrapers.

Amman is the kind of city I could get lost in, stopping to recalibrate in beautiful, LOCAL coffee shops, like Rumi Café below, while engaging with the warm, friendly locals.

There are many things to do in Amman, including the nearby top attractions of the Citadel and Jerash, both ancient Greco Roman cities.

I had two days exploring Jordan’s Capital City at the beginning of my Jordan Escape tour by Globus.

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1. Visit Citadel Hill

ancient ruins of the citadel with three plaques showing the three names of amman
The gates to the Citadel showing the three names of Amman

One of the most popular things to do in Amman is the Citadel, the ancient site of Rabbath-Ammon, the original name of Amman. Its considered one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places.

As it sits on the highest hill (Jabal al-Qal’a) in Amman, you’ll probably see the columns of the Temple of Hercules as you move about the city.

crumbling columns of Temple of Hercules Citadel with the hills of amman covered in buildings in the background
Temple of Hercules

The Temple of Hercules is the Citadel’s main attraction and will dominate your view as you walk through the city gates. (see more in this Reel)

At the foot of the temple columns lies the remains of what they believe was an enormous Statue of Hercules that collapsed during an earthquake.

The size of the remaining three fingers crawling on the hill and fragments of his elbow give you a sense of how gigantic the statue was.

giant fingers and elbow of herculles statue lying on floor
Giant fingers and elbow of Hercules

From Citadel Hill you get excellent views of the Roman Theater down in the valley and Amman.

Make sure you walk behind the small museum, so you don’t miss what once was the Umayyad Palace, believed to be built by the Umayyad Arabs around AD 720. I wish I had more time to explore this area.

ancient brick building with blue dome
Umayyad Palace receiving room

The blue-domed audience hall was designed to impress and receive visitors to the Royal Palace. It’s in the shape of a cross that mirrors the Byzantine church it was built over.

If you have time, stop into the Jordan Archaeological Museum to see excavated artifacts, including one of the oldest figures made by man (8,000 – 4,000 BC), a skull with holes drilled in to release negative spirits, and the gigantic jars that were actually coffins for children.

2. Visit the Amman Roman Theatre

Views of ancient Roman Theater amongst the buildings and hills of amman
Views of the Roman Theater

Now that you’ve seen the Roman Theater from the Citadel, it’s time to go down into the valley and explore this remnant of Roman Philadelphia.

It was built 2nd century AD during the reign of Antoninus Pius (AD 138–61). It was designed to keep the sun off the up to 6,000 people the arena was built for.

The theater has been reintroduced to local Amman life with concerts put on here sometimes during the summer months. It’s a highlight for many visitors to Amman.

3. Take a Day Trip to the Ancient Roman City of Jerash

birds eye view of jerash
Looking over Jerash from Zeus Temple

One of the best things to do in Jordan is to visit the ancient city of Jerash, considered one of the best-preserved Roman-era cities in the world. It’s only 50 km north of Amman, which makes it an easy day trip.

Actually, Alexander the Great originally founded Jerash (or Gerasa) as a Greek City in the 4th Century BC. You can still see the Greek inscriptions in the crumbling remains of the façade that once faced the city.

About three hundred years later, the Romans took control where it grew to be one of the most impressive Roman cities to ever exist. Buildings are as they were during the Roman days (or how it has crumbled since).

beautiful stone archways and buildings of jerash

Contemplate that as you walk around exploring what’s left of cultural centers like temples, theaters, and hippodromes. Don’t miss the impressive South Theater of Jerash.

old roman theater in jerash
What a beautiful view

The stunning backdrop of ancient and modern Jerash behind the elaborately carved stage gave a sense of the scale and beauty of Jerash and what it must have been like to sit here and watch a show in ancient Roman times.

Sit down to enjoy the short Jordan bagpipe band show and the amazing natural acoustics of the stage. (read more about my favorite memory with the Jordan bagpipe band)

bagpipe player south theater of jerash
With the bagpipe player

The stunning Temple of Zeus is next to the theater and offers some of the best views of Jerash.

columns of zeus temple jerash
The Temple of Zeus

I also loved wandering down the paved white stones of Colonnaded Street (Cardo Maximus) lined by two rows of columns. Ruts, worn by chariots, are still visible down this main street of Jerash.

stone cobbled road with columns on either site Colonnaded street Jerash
The Colonnaded Street

Further up the Cardo on the left, was another favorite, the richly carved gateway of the 2nd Century Roman Temple of Dionysus, dedicated to the God of Wine.

Thank you, Dionysus, for your service! You deserve elaborate temples built in your honor.

the ruins temple of dionysius
Thank you Dionysius

I found Jerash to be just as impressive, if not more, than Ephesus in Turkey and Pompeii in Italy, both of which I loved.

You can get to Jerash from Amman by bus. If you prefer the convenience of a guided tour, check out these options here.

4. Have Lunch at Beit Khairat Souf

arabic women sitting down talking and laughing

While in the Jerash area, consider stopping at Beit Khairat Souf in the nearby village of Souf.

We sat down to a delicious Jordanian lunch: hummus, mutabal (roasted eggplant), lamb kebab with eggplant, chicken, and potato sawany (a dish cooked in a tray), and an arugula salad with apple and pomegranate.

After lunch, we enjoyed sage tea in the pretty gorgeous outdoor seating area shaded by huge trees and fragrant flowers, and shopped in the small stores filled with preserved jars of food, knitted hats and bags, jewelry and other trinkets and souvenirs.

These stores are a part of Beit Khairat Souf’s Women’s Community Project created to help women financially support themselves. It’s a great cultural experience which gives back to community. See more photos here.

5. Explore Downtown Amman: Wa­sat Al-Balad

streets with buildings on the side of the road and palm trees
Downtown Amman

At the bottom of Citadel Hill is Wa­sat Al-Balad, the the oldest part of Amman.

I loved wandering around here discovering real Jordanian life through its old buildings, crumbling archeological ruins by the side of the road, cute cafes and bookstores, fresh produce markets, and stores selling scarves, gold, herbs and spices, fresh juices, and delicious desserts.

I absolutely loved this street art, which depicts equality, showing man and woman as one.

street art mural of man and woman face merged as one
Amazing street art

Near to this area is Rainbow Street, one of Amman’s most famous streets for its colorful decorations, street art, cafes, restaurants bars and rooftop terraces.

While I did not explore Rainbow St during my time in Aman, I could not share it with you. It’s sounds like the perfect way to spend a few hours soaking up local Amman life.

Top tip is to sit at the outdoor picnic tables located at Wild Jordan for sunset colors over the Citadel.

6. Eat Kunafa at Habibah Sweets

a plate of Kunafa desert
Kunafa

While in downtown Amman you must visit Habibah Sweets for kunafa, which is pastry soaked in sugary syrup, layered with goats cheese and topped with wheat and pistachio.

This traditional family-run sweet shop was founded in 1951, and our guide told us they have the best kunafa in the city, There are various locations around Amman, but this one down a small side street in Amman is the original location.

7. Visit King Abdullah’s Mosque

The beautiful blue dome of King Abdullah’s Mosque can be seen throughout Amman. It was built in 1989 as a memorial by the late King Hussein to his grandfather, King Abdullah I, the founder of the dynasty that ruled Jordan to this day and the first King of Jordan.

The mosque can house up to 7,000 worshippers, with a further 3,000 in the courtyard. There is also a small women’s section for 500 worshippers and a much smaller royal enclosure.

It is the most well-known mosque in the city, and the only one that openly welcomes non-Muslim visitors.

Avoid Friday prayer time, and remember etiquette when visiting places of worship. Women must cover their hair, arms and legs, and shoes must be removed before entering. Read this post for tips for women on dressing conservatively.

The view from the café balcony of the Jordan National Arts Galley is lovely.

Al Husseini Mosque in downtown Amman is popular with visitors as it’s the oldest mosque in Amman,

8. Explore Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts

painting of young boy in a red circle with arabic writing

I’ve come to enjoy art galleries and museums over the past couple of years – it’s become a regular date night in Raleigh for Craig and I.

The Jordan National Gallery of the Fine Arts located near the hipster Jabal al-Weibdeh, was a fantastic insight into Middle Eastern culture. Inside you’ll find a collection of over 2,800 works from 1000+ artists from the Islamic and developing worlds. The gallery has two buildings connected by a Sculpture Park.

I enjoyed perusing the painting, sculptures and jewelry in the galleries of the South building. It also has a museum shop and a beautiful Jungle Fever café with a gorgeous terrace that overlooks the garden of the National Gallery, views of Jabal al-Weibdeh, and the sculpture park.

Don’t miss the garden on the lower level out the front with fantastic sculptures

upstairs cafe with small tables and chairs
The Jungle Fever Cafe

Another popular art gallery in Amman is Darat al-Funun with exhibits of the most prominent contemporary Jordanian artists. It’s located on the hillside to the north of downtown Amman.

9. Have Coffee or Tea at Rumi Cafe

two men at counter of rumi cafe

I feel confident in my well-trained coffee eye and taste buds to recommend Rumi Café as the place in Jordan to get coffee.

We stopped here for tea after visiting the Suhail Gallery. I regret not ordering a coffee instead, as I’m pretty sure Rumi Café knows how to make a great one. Although my mint tea was soothing and the perfect accompaniment to conversations with friends.

 The ambiance here was spot on. It’s in the Jabal alWeibdeh neighborhood, a bohemian, hipster area found in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Amman.

10. Check out The Royal Automobile Museum, Amman

girl sitting in red car
Royal Automobile Museum

Since I can’t really tell the difference between a Lamborghini and a Porsche and I’m only interested in a car that can take me on fun road trip adventures, I wasn’t so thrilled at the idea of walking through this museum looking at cars.

But, I actually found it to be a fascinating insight into the history of modern Jordan. The museum showcases the late King Hussein’s extensive private collection of the world’s finest vintage motor vehicles.

The automobile collection includes armored vehicles, sports cars, motorcycles, and rally cars. It shares the stories behind several of them including famous people who rode in them.

You can even see Matt Damon’s Mars exploration vehicle from The Martian movie, which was shot in Wadi Rum in 2014.

King Hussein’s son, King Abdullah II of Jordan, (also an expert racer and lover of cars) created the museum as a tribute to the story of his much-loved father’s life.

You can read about our amazing experience riding around the streets of Amman in one of the King’s private vehicles – and his royal driver.

11. Take a Jordanian Cooking Class at Beit Sitti

Jordanian woman leading a cooking class
Cooking with Maria at Beit Sitti

What better way to get to know a local culture than by learning how to cook their traditional foods. Even better if class is held on the terrace of a family’s home filled with the memories of cooking with grandmother.

In the pleasantly hilly neighborhood of Jabal al Weibdeh, one of the oldest in Amman, is Beit Sitti, which means “Grandmother’s house” in Arabic.

The Beit Sitti cooking school is owned and operated by Grandmother’s three granddaughters, who taught teach them how to cook Arabic food.

One of the sisters, Chef Maria was our instructor for the evening’s cooking class and meal. She and her assistants were warm, friendly and encouraging, giving us a true sense of what it was like to be a guest in a Jordanian home.

cooking stations set up on a terrace
Our terrace kitchen

What I loved about our cooking experience at Beit Sitti was that it truly felt like we were cooking with Grandmother.

Maria was full of life and laughter, yet quick to give instructions. She hurried us along when we needed and offered straight to the point feedback wrapped up in the love of a grandmother.

Maria is focused not just on providing a warm, cultural, cooking experience, but works to empower women living in Amman. Beit Sitti employs local women to help with the classes, providing them with an income to sustain their families, and sometimes inspiring them to start their own businesses.

group Cooking class in Amman Jordan
Many travel blogger hands make light work

We all had specific tasks thrown at us by Maria, either chopping vegetables, folding dough, massaging spices into the chicken, and stirring dips.

As we prepared each dish, she would share more about the local ingredients, allowing us to taste some of them like freshly pressed olive oil and delicious homemade spice mixes as we went.

Somehow through all of that, and many laughs, we managed to create a feast of Chicken freekeh, mouttabal (smoky eggplant dip), farmers salad, eggplant fatteh, and a coconut cake for dessert.

A cooking class at Beit Sitti is an incredible introduction to learning about Arabic food and culture. And if you’re not visiting Jordan soon, you can cook some of these delicious Jordanian dishes at home as Maria shares recipes on her blog.

12. Tour the Iraq Al Amir Women’s Co-Operative

Women in muslim dress standing in a stone alleyway
Iraq Al Amir Women’s Cooperative

Iraq Al Amir is a peaceful village sandwiched between beautiful rolling hills and valleys about 45 minutes from Amman in the Wadi Seer region. It is located along the popular Jordan Trail.

This social enterprise was founded by the Noor Al-Hussein Foundation in 1993, with a mission to make the women in the area financially independent and to raise their standard of living by increasing their income and preserving local heritage.

The ladies at this hand-craft village offer cooking classes, traditional lunches, pottery, soap, paper and fabric-making workshops for tourists. 

After a delicious lunch prepared by the ladies with fresh produce from their garden, we toured the village to learn more about the program and the traditional methods used to create their handmade products. (All of which make perfect souvenirs.)

The Cooperative has created many job opportunities for women of all ages in a village where poverty is high and employment low. Some of the women gushed to us via a translator about how the co-op had changed their lives and how happy they were. 

A day excursion to the Iraq Al Amir Women’s Co-Op located here offers a wonderful insight into how Jordanian women are being empowered through tourism. 

Also near here are the popular Iraq Al Mir Caves, which we could see in the cliff faces as we drove in. It’s a popular place to visit as they have been inhabited by various groups since the Copper Ages. Iraq al-Amir actually means “Caves of the Prince” in Arabic.

13 Go On a Day Trip from Amman

two girls covered in mud dead sea
Mudding up with friends at the Dead Sea

I’ve already shared a few top attractions that are a day trip from Amman in this post, but there are more that are easy to get to. I experienced the following from our base at the Movenpick Resort at the Dead Sea (sooo amazing).

Click the links to read more about my time Visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan, where Jesus was Baptized; the Dead Sea; Madaba, and Mt Nebo. All of which are easy day trips from Amman.

Some people recommend Wadi Rum or Petra as a day trip from Amman, I don’t. I think they are too far for a day trip and Petra deserves at least a full day, if not two.

Tours from Amman

Guided Tours of Amman

man sitting on swing
Osama our guide

I loved having a guide take me through Amman. I feel I learned so much more about the history and culture of Jordan’s capital city. Our guide was part of our Globus tour, but I have researched and chosen a few guided tours of Amman for you if you are traveling independently.

The Jordan Pass

If visiting a few of the top attractions in Jordan, consider the Jordan Pass. It gives you access to more than 40 attractions including the Roman Theater, Jerash and the Citadel mentioned in this post on things to do in Amman.

If you purchase the pass before arrival and stay for a minimum of 3 nights, the pass will waiving any tourist entry visa fees. Visit the official website to find the right Jordan Pass package for you.

READ MORE JORDAN TRAVEL TIPS – 39 things to know before you visit

Amman Accommodation: Kempinski Hotel

king suite hotel room with views of amman out the window
Room with a view at the Kempinski

Kempinski Hotel is a fantastic five star hotel in Amman’s central business district. The service was outstanding, and the rooms were comfortable with the biggest and best pillows I’ve ever had. The bathroom towels were gigantic and just as luxurious as the fluffy robe.

I couldn’t have wished for a more comfortable bed for the 13 hour sleep I had on my first evening (after 30 hours without it). Spending 15 minutes each day in the complimentary steam and sauna room in the Spa helped me recover from jet lag.

The hotel offers buffet breakfast and dinners, which were also delicious and full of Jordanian food. Although I do recommend eating out in Amman. As we were on a tour with a busy schedule we ate mostly at the hotel while in Amman.

There are local restaurants within walking distance to the hotel if you want to eat out.

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Visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan: Where Jesus was Baptized https://www.ytravelblog.com/visiting-bethany-beyond-the-jordan/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/visiting-bethany-beyond-the-jordan/#respond Thu, 04 Aug 2022 20:28:41 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=139195 Visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan: Where Jesus was Baptized Read More »

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Bethany Beyond the Jordan was a spiritual experience my lapsed Catholic self was not expecting. It reminded me that while I don’t believe in religious constructs, I always have believed in and liked Jesus and his teachings of kindness, acceptance, and love. 

St John the Baptist Church
St John the Baptist Church and the Jordan River

Not only was I raised Catholic and attended Catholic schools, but I also got my teaching degree at the Catholic University in Sydney and taught in Catholic schools.

But since I’m no longer practicing, I wasn’t in the “this is a big deal” kind of thinking. In fact, I thought it was going to be the most uninteresting part of our Jordan Escape by Globus tour.

Well, the sacred energy of this Holy Land immediately snuck into my nonchalant perspective and grounded me down into a spiritual experience. Being at the place where Jesus was baptized by St John the Baptist (the name of the school I attended) was quite monumental and moving.

man at the edge of the water at jesus baptism pool

In a lifetime of travel experiences through 50+ countries, this is one that will sit with high definition clarity at the top of my memory box. It is a hidden gem of Jordan. No, make that the Middle East. No make that the World.

In reflection, I only wish I soaked it up more.

Many times with my travels, it’s in looking back where I feel the true value of the experience. I always wonder, “Why didn’t I embrace this fully at the time?” Do you find that often with yourself?

I think it’s probably because your five senses are taking everything in at once, making it hard to process it all at the time and understand what it means, or how it’s moving you.

That’s why making time for reflection is so valuable – and our memories are so precious. As we say,

“Travel More. Create Better Memories.” (and learn to be a better human.)

What is Bethany Beyond the Jordan?

A sign with Jesus baptism site in the background
The place Jesus was baptized

Al-Maghtas, otherwise known as Bethany Beyond the Jordan, has been a place of pilgrimage for Christians since St John the Baptist conducted his ministry and baptized Jesus of Nazareth.

This pristine wilderness is on the eastern back of the River Jordan, about 9km /5.5 miles north of the Dead Sea and near Mt Nebo where Moses showed the Israelite’s the Promised Land.

The Baptism Archeological Park is also a national park and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. 

crumbling remains of old buldings in the desert
St John’s Cave area

There are two areas in this archaeological site:

  1. Tell Al-Kharrar, also known as Jabal Mar-Elias (Elijah’s Hill)
  2. The area of the churches of Saint John the Baptist near the Jordan River.

These two areas are connected by a stream called Wadi Kharrar, which is where it is believed Jesus was baptized. I promise you, there is a sacred energy here!

The History of Jesus’ Baptismal Site (and how it went missing!!)

man walking through a desert landscape with dark clouds

Can you believe this incredible historical site kind of went missing for a few centuries? It was only rediscovered about twenty years ago!

As history is wanting to do, ruling power changed and around the 14th Century the area returned to the control of local tribes. East of the Jordan river was no longer a safe place to visit and so the pilgrims stopped coming.

With the discovery of the (nearby) Madaba Map in 1897, pilgrims started to return hoping to find clues to the location of the baptismal site.

The site once again became a no-go area with the two World Wars and the Palestinian – Israeli conflict.

huge church building with towers and domes
One of the churches in this area

Once the 1994 Peace Treaty was signed, the area which was full of mines began the process of de-mining, which opened the way for archaeological investigations.

Archeologists have uncovered a wealth of sites that include Byzantine churches, baptismal pools from the Roman and Byzantine periods, caves of monks and hermits, and lodges for pilgrims.

The overwhelming biblical, archeological, and historical evidence has led many religious leaders throughout the world to recognize this location as the authentic site of Jesus’ baptism.

Our guide spoke often, and with profound respect, as to how this area is protected and managed by the Kingdom of Jordan, a predominantly Muslim country.

I remember feeling a similar awe attending ANZAC Day in Gallipoli, Turkey. I was humbled and in awe of how much the Turkish people do to help us honor our fallen soldiers who invaded their land. There is more honor, love, and forgiveness in this world than you realize.

Tour of the Baptism Archeological Park

a group of people walking down a sandy trail with shady trees
The tranquil path to the Baptismal Site

The site is open year-round and charges a modest entry fee which includes a one hour guided tour (choose from 7 different languages) and a compulsory shuttle bus ride. Tours depart about every 30 minutes.

The ticket office is at the Visitors’ Centre, which has plenty of parking.

All private cars are prohibited within the archaeological zone so an electric minibus brings visitors to their choice of three different sites: Tell Mar Elias, the Baptism Pools, and John the Baptist’s Church.

Alternatively, you can walk the 2.5km from the Visitor Centre to Tell Mar Elias, then along the south bank of the Wadi Kharrar for another 2km to John the Baptist’s Church and the Jordan River. Our guide said this was very beautiful.

Be aware that this area is located right near the Dead Sea, in other words, the lowest point on earth, at over 350m below sea level. This means a dry, hot environment with little shade!

We visited during winter so had pleasant temperatures. Allow for 2-3 hours to tour the site.

man leading a group tour at Elijah's hill
Our tour guide, Rustom Mkhjian

Our Globus tour group had a private tour with Rustom Mkhjian, the Director General of Bethany Beyond the Jordan.

He enthusiastically shared with us the history of this area, pointing out notable sites as we toured, and how they showed evidence that this was the true site of Jesus’ baptism.

We visited early in the morning and had the place to ourselves. I am so grateful as our experience was that of a deeply peaceful meditative place perfect for contemplation, exploration, and learning.

There were a few people arriving as we left, but the reports I’ve read of Bethany Beyond the Jordan is that it is a peaceful experience without chaotic crowds.

We started our tour at Elijah Hill and then proceeded to the baptismal site and then down to the river Jordan.

But first let me start with the most moving experience.

Baptismal Site of Jesus at Bethany Beyond the Jordan

Beyond the bethany where jesus was baptized
Where Jesus was baptized. Note it’s shaped like a cross

Jesus’ baptismal site is believed to be in the springs of Wadi al-Kharrar, which flows to the Jordan. They assume the River Jordan was too dangerous and murky to perform baptisms.

We took a bus from Elijah Hill down to the baptismal area, where we followed a meandering and tranquil covered walking trail.

I was immediately overcome by a quiet, all-knowing spiritual energy, feeling the sacred site before I saw it.

The crumbling remains of churches and chapels here signify (based on bible and pilgrim accounts) that this was the spot. Notice in the photo above how the baptismal pool is shaped like a cross.

As we were there early before the crowds and on a private tour arranged by Globus, Rustom allowed us to walk down the ancient steps to the original water level and bless ourselves with it.

woman touching the water at Jesus baptism pool
Amazing experience

Being at the front of the line, I was stressed I was going to mess this up, but thankfully, I remembered to make the sign of the cross. My years of church attendance not completely lost on me.

It was only later that it hit me how monumental it was to be at the place where one of the most well-known, influential, and historically significant figures of all human history was baptized.

Even an atheist would respect the magnitude of a moment like that.

I wish I spent less time grappling with my phone to capture the essence and more time standing silently to soak it all up. I recommend taking your time in quiet reflection in this spot.

Really think about Jesus’ true message of kindness, acceptance, tolerance and love. He was a friend to ALL.

As our guide Ruston kept reminding us,

“It’s up to each of us to build bridges of love and peace”

 (You can see more in this Reel)

Elijah’s Hill – Tell Mar Elias

a stone arch marking the spot of Elijah Hill
Elijah Hill

Tell Mar Elias, or Elijah’s Hill, is where it is said the prophet Elijah rose into the heavens on a fiery chariot in the 9th Century BC.

It is marked by a rebuilt arch representing the 5th to 6th century pilgrim chapel. Pope John Paul II authenticated Bethany Beyond the Jordan here in 2000.

The small hill has the ruins of three churches, three caves and three baptism pools, accessible by a wooden catwalk.

Nearby is a 3rd-century rectangular prayer hall, one of the earliest Christian places of worship ever discovered. Also nearby is a system of water channels, pools, a well, and a large cistern with its original plastered interior

The site and the surrounding area has been a place where many Prophets have passed through. 

St John’s Cave

a small cave surrounded by rubble
St John the Baptist’s Cave

On the western side of Elijah’s Hill, is a small cave where John lived, and where Jesus was known to visit him. This is considered a very Holy site and therefore a church was built around the cave, which you can see the remains of.

Here, you can also see the Rhotorios Monastery with several churches and other buildings, all within a surrounding wall. The entrance in the northern wall leads to the living quarters of the monks. The mosaic floor includes a cross made of diamond shapes and a Greek inscription dating it to the time of Rhotorious.

plaque describing rhotorios monastery

It was the first monastery east of the Jordan River on the early Christian pilgrimage route between Jerusalem and Mount Nebo.

Another significant point is that during the period of Islamic rule, monks lived in the monastery performing their daily duties freely, portraying the kind of coexistence between Christians and Muslims that is still the case in modern day Jordan.

Visually the site is very similar to how it would have looked in the time of Jesus and John.

Church of St John the Baptist

From the baptismal pool, you can walk down to the actual Jordan River. The presence of several churches in this area – for eons – is another piece of evidence used to ascertain that this is the sacred baptismal spot.

Why else would they dedicate so many resources to build church after church here?

The most well known is the beautiful domed Greek Orthodox Church of St John the Baptist, built on Byzantine ruins in 2003 right near the Jordan River. The Byzantine‐style frescos inside are stunning, especially the Jesus Christ one on the ceiling under the dome.

jesus fresco inside church
The inside of St John the Baptist Church

If you enjoy exploring places of Christian significance, you may like Ancient Corinth in the Peloponnese where St Paul spend time living with the Corinthians.

Jordan River, on the Israeli – Jordan border

baptismal font at the river jordan
Baptismal font at the River Jordan

Walk out the church door to the banks of the Jordan River. Huge Israeli and Palestinian flags wave above a platform at the West Bank site, Qasr Al Yahud, another popular place for pilgrims to visit.

Nearby Jericho in Israel was considered the place of Jesus’ baptism before the uncovering of Bethany Beyond the Jordan.

small jordna river with building and flags of isreal and palestine flying
Israeli side of the Jordan

With its thicket of reeds and tamarisk bushes lining the banks and surrounding birdsong, it feels more like a tropical jungle down here than the desert.

There is not a lot to see, it’s more like a murky creek than a river. What enamored me the most were the gum trees along the river.

gum tree and reeds by the river jordan
The River Jordan – hello gum tree

Apparently, due to mines, this is the only place in Jordan where you can get access the Jordan River. Despite warnings, people do perform baptisms in the river. Instead, there is a font of water from the river where pilgrims renew baptismal promises.

Pilgrims to the site can request a religious ceremony at either of the two new baptism pools that have been built along Tell Mar Elias, or at the ancient Large Baptism Pool midway along the wadi.

Getting to Bethany Beyond the Jordan

brick sculpture with mural of john baptizing jesus
John Baptizes Jesus

The site is about an hour west of Amman, on the border with the Palestinian Territories. You can get a taxi from Amman, rent a car, or take a minibus to Madaba. Check rental car prices here.

It’s pretty easy to get a taxi from the Dead Sea or Madaba, both are relatively close.

While in this area, visit the other notable nearby sites in the Holy Land: Madaba, Mt Nebo, and the Dead Sea.

Where to stay near Bethany Beyond the Jordan

view of turquoise water of Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort
View of the Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort

As this area is near Dead Sea, my recommendation is to stay there. It’s a stunning place, it’s near many of the Holy Land sites, and you get to swim in the Dead Sea.

I Loved, loved, loved the Movenpick Resort Dead Sea – fantastic amenities, swimming pools, and views with your own private beach on the Dead Sea.

More Jordan travel tips

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Ancient City of Petra, Jordan: An Incredible Back Door Hike + Helpful guide https://www.ytravelblog.com/guide-petra-jordan/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/guide-petra-jordan/#comments Sat, 18 Jun 2022 13:06:24 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=137064 Ancient City of Petra, Jordan: An Incredible Back Door Hike + Helpful guide Read More »

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Imagine walking into Petra, Jordan without the hustle and bustle of tourists clamoring over each other for photos and mule handlers and souvenir stall sellers harassing you for business?

You’ll get it soon enough when you get into the heart of the city. A place like Petra deserves silent space to absorb its beauty and contemplate its magnificence.

hiking into Petra
Hiking in through the back door of Petra

The backdoor hike into the Ancient City of Petra gives you that. It was one of the best things I did in Jordan on my one-week trip with Globus.

I had never heard of it until I arrived in the nearby town of Wadi Musa and was instructed to lace up my boots!

Most people arrive down the 1.2 km Siq – the curving red and orange canyon path into Petra that leads straight to the front façade of the iconic Treasury – the most famous site in all of Jordan.

the treasury and siq petra jordan
Yeah okay so that is a World Wonder!!

The back door takes you along a 9-mile hike through the rugged, mountainous terrain to the ancient Rock City. (It was several miles before we even reached the back door!)

It’s definitely one of the best things to do in Jordan and the most unique way to experience Petra.

If you don’t want to do this hike, this post will still give you interesting facts about Petra, travel logistics, and the many things to see and do in Petra.

What is Petra?

A canyon
Carvings and tombs are everywhere

Petra is a spectacular sandstone city built in the third century BCE by the Nabataeans in the heart of the mountains between the Red Sea and Dead Sea. This location allowed it to become an important city on the major trading route connecting Mesopotamia and Egypt.

Caravans would stop here to trade and refresh before continuing their journey transporting rare items such as pepper, sugar, ginger, cotton, frankincense, and myrrh.

With the tolls and services Petra provided it was a very wealthy society and, at one stage, it accounted for 35% of Roman income.

At its peak in the first century BCE, Petra was home to almost 35,000 residents. As Romans are want to do, they invaded Petra in 106 CE, forcing the Nabateans to surrender. They ruled the city for more than 250 years. The Byzantines took over control governing the city for around three hundred years.

petra camels treasury

What makes this capital city of the Arab Nabataeans so unique and impressive are its monumental structures, tombs, theaters, and complex irrigation system carved directly into the soft red stone.

It wasn’t just buildings carved into cliff faces though, the Valleys of Petra also housed a number of freestanding buildings as well.

In 1985, Petra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and it was voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.

Petra is known as the Rose City” because of the color of the stones used in its buildings.

Petra is not just the Treasury. It’s actually 263 square kilometers – the size of 50,000 football fields. And amazingly, archaeologists have only uncovered about 18% of it so far.

Why is Petra known as a Lost City?

hiking through petra
Hiking through Petra City Center

Can you believe this incredible and expansive city actually faded into obscurity over a thousand years ago?

An earthquake in 363CE destroyed many of the freestanding buildings and the city started its decline. Another tremor in the 7th Century pretty much wiped it off the map.

It’s hard to fathom that, what is now one of the most visited attractions in Jordan and around the world, was left to the desert dust. It wasn’t completely lost though, for centuries it was known only to local Bedouin tribes living in the area.

In 1812, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, a Swiss explorer, rediscovered Petra and brought it back into the world’s spotlight.

Our Guided Hike into Petra

Map of back door trail Petra
Map of the Back Door Trail

This hike into Petra takes you through Jordan’s stunning desert landscape with breathtaking views of the mountains and across the wide basin of Wadi Araba. At times, the hazy view stretches across the Dead Sea into Israel and the Palestinian Territories.

As there was no one else around, it really gave a sense of what it must have felt like riding in and out of Petra thousands of years ago in your trading caravan.

The trail starts near Little Petra, which I did not know at the time. The beauty of a guide means you can just switch off your orientation antennas and just follow and enjoy.

back door hike petra
The start of the hike

Our private guide, Abdullah met us at our hotel and took us to the start point by the side of the highway in the middle of nowhere.

We began by walking across the plain until we veered to the left up a small hill to where we saw the only sign for the entire trail. This is the actual start to the Back Door Trail, and you can hire a 4×4 to drop you there.

petra hike back door
Such a different perspective

The trail goes up and down through small valleys, up staircases cut into the rock face, and around beautiful mountains with stunning ledges for viewpoints and photos and resting points.

We passed very few people and came across a couple of places where you could have a Bedouin tea or coffee. (They were closed as it was low season.)  We even had a fun photo opportunity with a random abandoned car.

I highly recommend you take a local guide on this 9-mile hike into Petra. You could easily get lost on the trail that has little signage.

Plus, having a guide will give you a deeper insight into Petra’s history, and the desert mountain world. (And it’s a fantastic way to support local economy)

back door petra hike with guide
Our guide Abdullah

Abdullah pointed out details we otherwise wouldn’t notice like the wine vats, water tanks, tombs, and areas of the Holy Land stretched out across the views in front of us.

He pointed out the valuable juniper tree, a wood great for building with very long fibers like human muscle. Because of its high alcohol it is poisonous to insects and so won’t ever rot.

He shared so much about the history of Petra from the Nabateans, to the Roman invasion, to its eventual demise.

I loved learning how the pagan Nabadeans created a wealthy society that revered women, forbade prostitution and slavery, paid people what they were worth, and engineered a world that existed in harmony with Mother Nature.

How did we go wrong and stray so far from this ideal path?

back door hike to petra with guide
Abdullah pointing out the view

I’m grateful we experienced Petra on this hike with Abdullah. Without him, I may never have seen beyond its impressive physical realm.

Petra Back Door Trail Tips:

back door hike into petra
A few stairs to climb

You will climb several stairs throughout the hike, but apart from that, it’s not too strenuous. I am an experienced hiker and very fit. If you aren’t either of those you may find it challenging. I would, however, take my children on this hike with me.

Be sure to have good sturdy, walking shoes, plenty of water, snacks, and sun protection.

If you are doing this in the summer months, you will want to start at sunrise. We had a 70-degree winter day and it felt much hotter and more intense in the direct line of the desert sun.

Be sure to organize your tickets into Petra before starting this hike. You cannot buy tickets as you enter into the Monastery side, but your tickets will be checked. If you have the Jordan Pass, get it stamped at the visitor center before you do the hike as well.

You can hire guides at the Petra Visitor Center in Wadi Musa. You can also bok this private guide for the back door trail via Viator.

Things to do and see in Petra, Jordan

A canyon with a mountain in the background

Now let’s look at what you see once you arrive in Petra. Remember if you are not doing this backdoor hike in, you will arrive via the Siq from the Visitor Center in Wadi Musa. The Treasury will be the first thing you see.

Jump down to that section in the post and work backward if it gets too confusing. I’m going to follow the trail as I experienced it from the Monastery into the Treasury.

NOTE: The Globus Escape Tour of Jordan organizes a tour guide for your day trip to Petra coming in via the Visitor Center and the Siq. i.e. Not doing the back door trail!

You can do it yourself as the visitor center have self-guided maps. I personally think as this is a once in a lifetime experience, you hire a guide as you’ll learn so much more from the expert, local perspective.

This tour guide comes highly recommended on Viator if you want a guide to take you though Petra.

The Monastery, al-Deir

The monastery petra
What an amazing thing to turn the corner and see

You will not forget turning the corner on your hike and suddenly seeing the Monastery rising out of the cliff face.

As the Treasury is so well-known to the world, and the Monastery isn’t, I think this will be the memory that will most live with me from my Petra excursion.

It was a much-needed Oasis after two hours of walking through the desert. It’s similar to the Treasury in style and grandiose, but bigger and more unexpected (and quieter).

the monastery petra jordan -2
Our first glimpse of Petra at the Monastery

The Monastery is the largest structure in Petra dating back to the 1st Century B.C. (50m high and 45m wide)

Archaeologists think it was built as a tomb, although the colossal chambers and several other structures around it that suggest that it was used for religious gatherings. It was most probably used as a church in the Byzantine times.

The façade is less elaborately decorated than the Treasury with no statues in its niches.

the monastery facade jordan
Plain but beautiful

Walk around to get different viewpoints. Don’t miss the view staring out from within a small cave opposite it.

I enjoyed drinking a freshly squeezed lemon mint juice from the small cave café under the shade of a Eucalyptus tree!!

It was the perfect refreshing break and opportunity to stare in awe at the Monastery, enjoy the groundedness that comes with feeling so small, and wonder just how they carved all of that into the rock.

Are humans even capable of such commitment, patience, and elaborate artistry anymore?

monastery cafe jordan
What a cafe view!

NOTE: There are toilets which will cost you 1JD to cover the cost of the water (and labor) as they have to carry water in on that long trek where we just came.

As the walk from the Treasury to the Monastery is quite far and strenuous for most visitors, it will be a much quieter Petra attraction.

Even if you don’t hike in via the backdoor, I recommend allowing time in your day to walk up to the Monastery from The Treasury (about three hours round trip from the Visitor Center in Wadi Musa).

The 1,000 steps

the 1000 steps petra
The 1,000 steps coming from the Monastery

If you are exploring Petra beyond the Treasury, you may hear of the 1,000 steps up from the lower road in the city center. It’s worth it – just take it slow.

Good news! If you are taking the back door hike, you’ll mostly be going down them!

It’s a beautiful walk with plenty of places to rest and soak in the views.

The pathway lined with stalls selling jewelry, scarves, trinkets, and offerings to sit and take tea together. Just offer a polite no.

Our Globus guide, Osama told us if you place your right hand over your heart while saying no, they’ll understand you’re truly not interested.

It seemed to work, and I did not find them as insistent or aggressive as I have in other countries.

Be on the lookout for passing donkeys. If you don’t want to hike all the way to the Monastery from the Treasury, you can ride a donkey. Although reports are mixed about how the animals are treated so think carefully.

Lion Triclinium petra
Lion Triclinium temple

A slight detour along the stairs is a little temple hidden in the mountains called the Lion Triclinium. It’s named after the carved lions on both sides of the entrance. If it weren’t for our guide, we would have missed this.

You’ll be pleased to know at the bottom of the steps is the lovely Basin Restaurant with a beautiful overhanging willow tree offering plenty of shade for a well-deserved rest.

basin restaurant petra
Beautiful place to have a rest

This is when you’ll first start to notice Petra crowds. As we were traveling in the off season (the Jordan Globus Escape tour is designed specifically for them) the crowds weren’t bad at all.

I couldn’t imagine being here with the intense heat and crowds of the peak season months.

Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter – Qasr Al Bint

Qasr Al bint petra
Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter

One of the most important Temples in Petra stands at the end of the Colonnaded Street. Named Qasr Al Bin by the local Bedouin, which means Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter.

It was built as a dedication to the Nabataean gods, stood at 23 m high, and was elaborately decorated with marble, columns, raised places for worship, and a large sacrificial altar in the front courtyard.

It’s also one of the few (albeit crumbling) free-standing structures in Petra.

We stood on the small hill opposite, taking in the wide perspective of the temple, Colonnaded Street, and the Great Temple. Next visit I’ll explore them up close.

The Great Temple

the great temple petra
The crumbling remains of the Great Temple

The largest free-standing building in Petra is the Great Temple. However, it is said to serve the purpose of a Royal Reception Hall and the Romans probably used it as a civic center.

The Great Temple included a 600-seat theater, vaulted rooms underneath, a huge, paved courtyard and a triple colonnade.

From our all-encompassing perspective you could see how grandiose the complex must have been. It stood on the ground and covered an area more than twice the size of a football field.

The Colonnaded Street

brick ruins

Whether you are coming in from the Treasury, or from the 1,000 steps, you will soon arrive at the Colonnaded Street, where you’ll start to see the Roman influence on the city.

On one end is the Castle of the Pharaoh’s Daughter and the other is the Royal Tombs carved into the massif.

Abdullah told us of the exotic area up behind the Great Temple which as three villas with thirty rooms, each with their own steam room.

close up of a red drink
So refreshing!

There are a few restaurants and resting places along here. Grab a pomegranate and orange juice from the vendors and spend time watching the camels and donkeys go up and down this street.

You can almost imagine the hustle and bustle of what would have been one of the ancient city’s busiest areas. It was once lined with shops and columns of marble clad sandstone. It is estimated 1,000 people lived in this city center.

The Royal Tombs

Colonnaded Street and Royal Tombs
Colonnaded Street and Royal Tombs

As you continue walking along the Colonnaded Street towards the Treasury, you’ll notice a set of tomb facades cut into the cliffs above. 

These huge mausoleums carved into the ‘Jebel Al Khubtha’ are the Royal tombs and illustrate some of the best carvings in Petra.

We were content to look at them from below and learn more from Abdullah about these impressive burial places in Petra.

the royal tombs petra

You can climb up to the top and explore another mystic high place of Petra.

Near the Royal Tombs is also the The ‘Al Khubtha’ trail that leads you to what is said to be the best view of the Treasury. It’s 3.5 km / 1.3 mil one way. 

As you can tell Petra has lots of other hikes you can do within the city..

The Street of Facades 

red rock ruins
tombs carved into the rock on the Street of Facades

After the Colonnaded Street, before you reach the Treasury (or just after you leave) is the Street of Facades in the Outer Siq. Along this street is a collection of more than forty tombs as well as government offices at street level for trading documents, taxes etc.

I loved the colors and textures of the walls along here.

We were able to go into one of the caves. There wasn’t much to see but it gave an insight into how it could have been. Big black smoke stains from the fires made inside are still visible on the ceilings and walls. 

 Carved Roman Theater

The carved theater petra
The theater with tombs above

Here is where you’ll find the 7,000-seat Theater worn by the passage of time and damaged by the earthquake. I wish we had time to climb up here and get the perspective of the Nabateans coming together for entertainment with their outside view of the incredible city carved out of the rocky red landscape.

The only comedic entertainment you can see now is that of the tourists with all their ill-mannered and quirky habits wandering up and down the hot and dusty street below.

There are a set of steps to the left of the theater, which lead to the High Place of Sacrifice, a well-preserved sit on top of Jebel Madhbah.

A popular hike in Petra is the 45-minute steep climb up to this hilltop altar. It’s meant to be one of the best things to do in Petra for the intrepid explorer! From there you can go down the other side of the mountain to see the Garden Tomb, Roman Soldiers, Tomb, and Garden Triclinium.

The Irrigation System

A close up of an old building
Clay pipes run across the tomb looking like decoration

As Petra received little rainfall, the Nabateans developed an advanced water management system, which helped them create a lush garden in the middle of the barren desert, as well as a series of fountains and pools.

From this irrigation system they were able to also produce wine and olive oil as well as fruits and other crops.

No wonder Petra was paradise to passing traders.

water channel in rock
The water channel running through the Siq

Without a guide, it may be difficult to notice the complex irrigation system. Abdullah shared insights with us about this along our entire hike stopping along the way to show us storage cisterns, tanks, aqueducts, and water channels and pipes carved into facades and rock faces.

A canyon with a mountain in the background
A tunnel dam that was rediscovered

As we walked down the Street of Facades you could see clay pipes running across the cliff faces. They were carefully constructed to form part of the tomb’s decorations, allowing them to respect the dead while running water through the city.

You should easily be able to notice the water channels and pipes carved into the rock faces as you walk down the Siq. At the entrance to the Siq on the right as you come in, you can see a Dam with a tunnel cut through the mountain, built in the first century BC, to prevent the waters of Wadi Mousa from entering through the Siq.

The Treasury, Al-Khazneh

the treasury petra jordan
The Treasury, Petra

As soon as we walked into the Treasury area, the atmosphere became more frenetic and chaotic with people buzzing around everywhere trying to get their shots or barter with the local Bedouin for the touristy things.

Girls dressed as Arabian princess on camels were rotated in and out to pose in front of the Treasury; kids were getting into arguments with elders over the hiring of animals; golf carts whizzed by with tired tourists; and camels were lazing around with their Bedouin masters standing guard and ready to convince the next tourist to jump aboard.

It was fun to watch, but also a little intense. I missed the quiet serenity of the Monastery.

The Treasury in Petra is one of the most historical sites in the world. It was made famous in part by Indiana Jones on his quest for the Holy Grail in Petra’s caves. The final scenes of 1989’s Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were actually filmed here.

The Treasury was built to serve as a tomb for the Nabataean King Aretas III (c 100 BCE–CE 200), However, its name comes from the story of the Egyptian Pharaoh who hid his treasure in the façade urn while pursuing the Israelites.

Look closely and you’ll see pockmarks in the sandstone urn from those trying to shoot it down!!

The breathtaking Hellenistic façade of the Treasury stands nearly forty meters high and twenty five meters wide. It’s richly ornamented with Corinthian pillars, friezes, sculptures, and other details. 

You may get lost for a while studying and contemplating the magnificent artisanship of the building and how earth they would have the enduring patience to chip away at the rock so meticulously. And all just for someone’s tomb!!

You can’t go inside the Treasury, but there’s nothing to see anyway: it’s an empty chamber. Its creators were far more focused on crafting the outside.

The Treasury is at its most photogenic in full sunlight between about 9am and 11am or  late in the afternoon, around 5 or 6pm, when the façade is bathed in a reflected reddish-pink glow from the walls all around. We timed it perfectly for that. 

The Siq

the siq petra

If you are not hiking into Petra via the backdoor, your arrival into the Treasury will be magical. Don’t race through the Siq to hasten your arrival to The Treasury.

That view at the end of the 1.2km canyon is something to savor, but so is the walk between the narrow, curving, vertical walls of the tunnels as it snakes its way there.

The curving walls narrow as you walk down the Siq adding that extra element of drama for the final arrival. You can see that in this reel.

It’s easy to think that the canyon was carved by the natural flow of water, but it’s actually a crack in the rock, torn apart by tectonic forces. As we learned already an earthquake was what caused Petra’s eventual demise.

This was a sacred place for the Nabatean pilgrims as they began their spiritual journey into what they thought of as their Holy City. Along the canyon you can see many wall niches that once held figures of their Gods, giving the pilgrims a glimpse of what was to come.

There is a lot to see along the Siq so take your time.

Some parts of the pathway will be the worn patches of the Roman/Nabatean road which originally paved the Siq along its entire length.

You can see the original water channels cut into the walls in some places they pass behind what you can tell would have been an elaborate carving of a camel and a caravan man on the wall.

man and camel carving the siq petra
Man and his camel with the water passage behind them

Between the Petra Visitor Centre and the entrance to the Siq, there is the Obelisk Tomb, a tomb with four pyramidal obelisks, built as funerary symbols by the Nabataeans in the 1st century BC.

A rock building
Obelisk Tomb

There are also three enormous, squat monuments, known as Djinn Blocks or God Blocks. No one really knows their purpose but it is thought to either represent the start of tombs, be associated with funerary dedications, or used for the worship of water and fertility.

And if you do arrive at Petra via the backdoor hike, I recommend you walk out through the Siq a fair distance and then turn around and walk back so you can experience that sublime introduction to this ancient city.

It takes about 20-30 minutes just to walk down the 1.2km Siq to reach the Treasury.

Petra By Night

The treasury petra lit up at night
The Treasury at night

If your daytime adventures in Petra aren’t enough, you can walk back in to experience Petra by Night (an extra fee of 17 JOD).

Even though our legs protested, it was fun walking down a dimly lit Siq under the starry sky to arrive at the Treasury.

Candles were evenly spaced on the desert ground in front of the shadowy outline of the Treasury.

A desert dweller stood amongst the candles playing a Jordanian tune on a flute, bringing harmony to the quiet, dark stillness. After a bit of storytelling about Petra and the Nabateans, colored lights illuminated the Treasury.

Petra by night

I took this moment to completely forget all my photography skills and not turn up my ISO to capture the beautiful Petra by night. At least I got the thousands of candles in front okay!

While it was a little kitsch, it was still worth it for this more eerie Treasury experience and to enjoy walking along the canyon at night.

How Long will you need in Petra?

A group of people in a canyon

Petra is so much more than the Treasury. Throw on your T-Shirt, shorts, and hiking shoes and explore it in depth.

You will definitely need at least a full day to explore Petra.

We spent 9 hours and it wasn’t anywhere near enough time!

If you are going to do the backdoor hike into Petra, plan on spending two days in Petra. There is so much to see and do, and we missed a lot of the points of interest along the way.

I would spend one day hiking into Petra and explore the lower levels. The hike can be tiring – especially if it’s hot. You’ll also want to spend time absorbing the beauty of the Monastery and the Treasury.

For the second day, I would come back in to explore the upper levels and the additional hikes and attractions mentioned above which we did not get time to do.

You may also want to explore Little Petra, which I believe warrants a few hours. And then why not spend time resting in the town of Wadi Musa?

Three days in Petra would be an amazing length of time. I do beseech that you spend longer than a quick “I was here photo” in front of the Treasury in Petra. An abundance of riches lies a little further down the path. 

Wadi Musa

Wadi Musa is the town on the doorsteps of the Ancient City of Petra. It’s also known as Petra so it can get confusing. Here you’ll find hotels to suit all types of travelers and budgets. You’ll also find plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops in the town.

We had an amazing dinner with a Jordanian family in their home in Petra. Click here to read more of that.

Where to stay in Petra?

mvoen pick resort petra room
The rooms at Movenpick

We stayed at the Movenpick Resort Petra, a five-star hotel across the road from the Petra Visitor Center. You couldn’t get any closer!

It was a beautiful hotel with comfortable rooms, and great amenities which included bars and restaurants. Their buffet breakfasts and dinner were great.

I loved the interior design of this Petra resort filled with Middle Eastern fabrics, marble floors, handcrafted wood, embroidered chairs and water fountains.

Sadly, given the time of year we visited the rooftop terrace was not open. The rooftop has amazing views and live music at sunset. It was recommended to me by a trusted friend.

Book your stay at the Movenpick Resort Petra here.

How to get to Petra

donkeys in petra

Petra is just a short walk away from the center of Wadi Musa. Some hotels may offer shuttles, else you have taxis.

Petra is about 236km/ 3 hours from Amman, the capital of Jordan via the Desert Highway. Many like to arrive by way of the more scenic and historically significant, Kings Highway – 255km / 4 hours. (Check rental cars from Amman here)

If you like convenience and have less time, joining a tour may be the best way. Our Jordan Escape Globus tour of Jordan took care of everything, including hotel stay, transport, most meals, amazing experiences, and informative guide. All I had to do was arrive at the scheduled time and enjoy myself. You can read more about my tour experience with them here.

GLOBUS DISCOUNT JUST FOR YOU!

We’ve secured an exclusive yTravel discount: Save $100 per person on select 2023 and 2024 Globus and Avalon Waterway Vacations. Use the code: YTRAVEL when booking online at the Globus, Cosmos, and Avalon Waterways websites, by calling Globus and Avalon Waterways directly, or booking with a preferred Travel Advisor. Terms & Conditions.

How much does Petra Cost?

monastery cafe petra

A one-day ticket costs 50JOD, but you can get better value with a two-day ticket for 55 JOD and three-day ticket for 60 JOD. Children under 12 are free. Always check current prices as it may change.

Many travelers recommended the Jordan Pass, which includes entry to Petra and other sites in Jordan like Jerash, Amman, Citadel, and Wadi Rum. As our entry tickets were part of our Globus tour, I did not need to worry about this.

Petra Visitor Center and Petra Museum

You can get your tickets at the visitor center in Wadi Musa at the entrance to Petra. You can also hire guides and pick up some Petra maps.

Here is where you’ll also find the recently opened Petra Museum, which houses artifacts from the lost city of Petra. The free museum features eight galleries with 300 exhibits that were excavated from various archaeological sites in Petra. We didn’t get time to visit.

When is the best time to visit Petra, Jordan?

hiking in petra

The best time to visit Jordan is during the Spring and Autumn months, which in Jordan is March, April and May or September, October and November. Average high temperatures are from 19°C–28°C (66–82°F).

Winter will be cold with average temperatures 2–13°C (36–55°F). As it’s the desert you won’t see too much rain but it’s more likely to happen in the winter months.

We visited in late February and were so lucky to have a warm 70 winter’s day. That desert sun beat down so fiercely that these temperatures felt unusually hot. I couldn’t imagine trying to explore Petra – especially that hike – during the height of summer.

If you are visiting in the summer months of June – August expect high desert temperatures. Go early to avoid the hottest part of the day and take advantage of the little shade, you’ll find.

Further Reading for Jordan Travel

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Comment: Do you have any tips for visiting Petra? Please leave any questions or stories below!

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The BEST of Jordan on a 7 Day Escape Tour By Globus https://www.ytravelblog.com/best-of-jordan-7-days/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/best-of-jordan-7-days/#comments Tue, 22 Mar 2022 10:59:53 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=130996 When I reflect on my recent 7 Day Jordan Escape by Globus tour, I don’t think I’ve ever experienced so many BIG attractions and highlights in such a short period of time before.

I’m used to exploring gigantic countries like Australia and the USA, where it’s impossible to visit several GLOBAL bucket list items in just one week.

As a small country with ancient stories to tell, Jordan makes it easy to have monumental experiences in a short amount of time.

woman standing in front of an old wall
Exploring Jerash

Even easier is doing it on a group tour where you can savor the experiences with minimal effort. You don’t have to plan, take care of any logistics, or fight through the crowds that normally come with such well-known attractions during high season travel.

You get accommodation and transport covered with some meals and a local guide to ensure your experienced is memorable, informative and worry free.

I joined this Jordan Escape by Globus tour on a paid campaign to experience this unique and affordable style of off-season travel.

GLOBUS DISCOUNT JUST FOR YOU!

We’ve secured an exclusive yTravel discount: Save $100 per person on select 2023 and 2024 Globus and Avalon Waterway Vacations. Use the code: YTRAVEL when booking online at the Globus, Cosmos, and Avalon Waterways websites, by calling Globus and Avalon Waterways directly, or booking with a preferred Travel Advisor. Terms & Conditions.

Jordan Escape By Globus Tours

jordan escape by globus
Fun with my fellow blogging friends in Petra

Escape Tours by Globus are designed to give you the best itineraries across the globe, but at a more affordable price with fewer crowds.

It’s because they travel in the off-season (which is always one of our top travel tips to help you travel more!)

That’s 5-star experiences for up to 30-40% off. Plus, for most Escapes tours there are a number of single rooms available where the single supplement is waived.

I was worried it may have been too cold in Jordan during the winter, but the weather was pleasant for most of the trip. We even ended up with slight tans after a day in the warm desert sun in Petra. In fact, I couldn’t imagine how uncomfortably hot it would be during the peak summer season.

Our tour included highlights like the Dead Sea and two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Wadi Rum Protected Area and Petra (which is also a New Wonder of the World). But we also had smaller, lessor known experiences that were just as good. (Read this post on memorable Jordan moments)  

I loved being able to explore Jordan without having to organize anything. As I said on my Globus tour of Northern California last year, as a busy Mother (and business owner), this is the greatest benefit of a group tour.

Globus takes care of everything – even taking your bags off the bus and straight to your room and organizing our mandatory COVID test the day before returning to the USA.

Transfers to and from the airport are included as part of the tour. Clearing immigration can be a stressful part of international travel, but Mohammad from Globus met me at the gate to help me liaise with the immigration officer.

He then picked up my luggage, took me through customs, and then steered me towards the best ATM (for rates) before taking me to my car transfer. That was a service I have never received before and completely loved.

globus tour jordan
A great group tour experience

Our guide, Osama gave us valuable tips and insights on Jordanian history and culture, how to make most of our time at the attractions, and which vendors were legitimate to buy from (and what was a good price).

I loved hearing from him stories about arranged marriages, the lifestyle of the Bedouin people, the different religious traditions, and the in-depth history of the country starting from the ancient Nabateans to the current Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

This was my first time traveling to the Middle East and I loved it. Not only is Jordan stunning with a fascinating and rich history, it is filled with warm, friendly and welcoming people.

Here are the BEST things to do in Jordan as experienced on our tour. I’ve re-created the 7-day itinerary for you! 

Days 1-2 Amman

The view of Amman from Citadel Hill
The view of Amman from Citadel Hill

With a population of 4.5 million, the capital, Amman is Jordan’s largest city. It is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities with a history spanning nine millennia!

Amman is known as the City of Seven Hills, in reference to its history of Roman rule. (Rome which was also founded on seven hills). However, with Amman’s growth over the years, the city now sprawls across over twenty hills.

There are so many great things to do in Amman. You’ll discover a fascinating mix of old and new neighborhoods made up of crumbling ruins, limestone desert buildings, and modern skyscrapers. (Not to mention the gigantic white and black Starbucks built into the side of the hill I saw on my drive in from the airport. NOOOOOOO! Make Them STOP!)

Amman is the kind of city I could get lost in, stopping to recalibrate in beautiful, LOCAL coffee shops, Like Rumi Café below.

The two unmissable attractions in Amman (or nearby) are the Citadel and Jerash, both ancient Greco Roman cities.

I recommend arriving in Amman for your two at least a day earlier. Not only does that give you a buffer in case of flight delays, but it will give you extra time to explore Jordan’s Capital city.

While in Amman also consider:

  • Jordan National Gallery of Fine Arts: a great collection of contemporary art from Middle Eastern artists. Beautiful looking café in here too.
  • King Abdullah’s Mosque, the most well known mosque in Amman.
  • Rumi Café: My well-practiced eyes for spotting a good café fell in love with the Rumi Café. We stopped here for tea after visiting the Suhail Gallery. I regret not ordering a coffee instead, as I’m pretty sure Rumi Café knows how to make a great one. The ambiance here was spot on. It’s in the The Jabal alWeibdeh neighborhood, a bohemian, hipster area found in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Amman.
  • The Royal Automobile Museum Car lovers will want to see the Royal automobile collection of the last King Hussein (Read about our Royal drive through Amman here)

Citadel Hill

Citadel hill amman
The gates to the Citadel showing the three names of Amman

The Citadel sits on the highest hill (Jabal al-Qal’a) in Amman and is the ancient site of Rabbath-Ammon, the original name of Amman.

A 1,700m long wall surrounded Citadel Hill, fortifying what is considered among the world’s oldest continuously inhabited places.

The Temple of Hercules is the Citadel’s main attraction. It not only dominates the skyline as soon as you walk through the Citadel gates, but can be seen from various parts of the city. (see more in this Reel)

Temple of Hercules Citadel Amman
Temple of Hercules

The temple was built during Roman occupation and the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius.

At the foot of the temple columns lies the remains of what they believe was an enormous Statue of Hercules that collapsed during an earthquake.

The size of the remaining three fingers crawling on the hill and fragments of his elbow give you a sense of how gigantic the statue was.

Temple of Hercules State Citadel Amman
Giant fingers and elbow of Hercules

From the Temple of Hercules, you can look down upon the Roman Theater, which was built at the same time and accommodated up to 6,000 spectators.

The views from Citadel hill of Amman are fantastic.

Make sure you walk behind the small museum, so you don’t miss the crumbling remains of what once was the Umayyad Palace, believed to be built by the Umayyad Arabs around AD 720.

Umayyad Palace receiving room
Umayyad Palace receiving room

I wish I had more time to explore this area.

I only really got to see the blue-domed audience hall designed to impress visitors to the Royal Palace. It’s in the shape of a cross that mirrors the Byzantine church it was built over.

If you have time, stop into the Jordan Archaeological Museum to see excavated artifacts, including one of the oldest figures made by man (8,000 – 4,000 BC), a skull with holes drilled in to release negative spirits, and the gigantic jars that were actually coffins for children.

Downtown Amman: Wa­sat Al-Balad

city street
Downtown Amman

At the bottom of Citadel Hill is Wa­sat Al-Balad, the the oldest part of Amman.

Here’s where you can discover real Jordanian life through its old buildings, crumbling archeological ruins by the side of the road, cute cafes and bookstores, fresh produce markets, and stores selling scarves, gold, herbs and spices, fresh juices, and delicious desserts like Kunafeh (goats cheese. topped with wheat and pistachio).

I absolutely loved this street art, which depicts equality, showing man and woman as one.

street art amman jordan
Amazing street art

Lunch at Bait Khairat Souf Women’s Co-Operative

The women of Bait Khairat Souf
The women of Bait Khairat Souf

We stopped off in the remote village of Souf on the way to Jerash for lunch at Beit Khairat Souf.

We sat down to a delicious Jordanian lunch: hummus, mutabal (roasted eggplant), lamb kebab with eggplant, chicken, and potato sawany (a dish cooked in a tray), and an arugula salad with apple and pomegranate.

After lunch, we enjoyed sage tea in the pretty gorgeous outdoor seating area shaded by huge trees and fragrant flowers, and shopped in the small stores filled with preserved jars of food, knitted hats and bags, jewelry and other trinkets and souvenirs.

These stores are a part of Beit Khairat Souf’s Women’s Community Project created to help women financially support themselves.

This co-operative has boosted the tourism in the village and employed many local women who were facing difficulties in trying to market their products, which they enthusiastically shared with us through beaming smiles, waves, and giggles.

The Ancient Roman City of Jerash

birds eye view of jerash
Looking over Jerash from Zeus Temple

One of the best things to do in Jordan is to visit the ancient city of Jerash, considered one of the best-preserved Roman-era cities in the world.

Actually, Alexander the Great originally founded Jerash (or Gerasa) as a Greek City in the 4th Century BC. You can still see the Greek inscriptions in the crumbling remains of the façade that once faced the city.

About three hundred years later, the Romans took control where it grew to be one of the most impressive Roman cities to ever exist.

old stone ruins

Unlike other ancient Roman cities, you’ll see little restoration; buildings are as it was during the Roman days (or how it has crumbled since).

Contemplate that as you walk around exploring what’s left of cultural centers like temples, theaters, and hippodromes.

White Australia has such a short, colonized history that you wouldn’t find a building under 200 years old. Our Indigenous culture is one of the oldest living civilizations in the world, but they were nomadic so have no crumbling remains.

It’s mind-blowing for my Aussie self to visit such ancient attractions and realize that life existed for a long time before my DNA memory. 

There is so much to see in Jerash, and I barely scratched the surface. After a guided tour with Osama through the first section of Jerash, I had time to wander on my own.

jerash theater amman
What a beautiful view

Don’t miss the impressive South Theater of Jerash.

The stunning backdrop of ancient and modern Jerash behind the elaborately carved stage gave a sense of the scale and beauty of Jerash and what it must have been like to sit here and watch a show in ancient Roman times.

Sit down to enjoy the short Jordan bagpipe band show and the amazing natural acoustics of the stage. (read more about my favorite memory with the Jordan bagpipe band)

bagpipe player south theater of jerash
With the bagpipe player

The stunning Temple of Zeus is next to the theater and offers some of the best views of Jerash.

zeus temple jerash
The Temple of Zeus

I also loved wandering down the paved white stones of Colonnaded Street (Cardo Maximus) lined by two rows of columns. Ruts, worn by chariots, are still visible down this main street of Jerash.

Colonnaded street Jerash
The Colonnaded Street

Further up the Cardo on the left, was another favorite, the richly carved gateway of the 2nd Century Roman Temple of Dionysus, dedicated to the God of Wine.

Thank you, Dionysus, for your service! You deserve elaborate temples built in your honor.

temple of dionysius
Thank you Dionysius

I found Jerash to be just as impressive, if not more, than Ephesus in Turkey and Pompeii in Italy, both of which I loved.

Jerash is located about 50km north of Amman.

Amman Accommodation: Kempinski Hotel

 The Kempinski hotel king suite amman
Room with a view at the Kempinski

To be honest, I wasn’t expecting such a nice hotel to be part of a tour.

Kempinski Hotel was in a great location in Amman’s central business district, the service was outstanding, and the rooms were very comfortable with the biggest and best pillows I’ve ever had. The bathroom towels were gigantic and just as luxurious as the fluffy robe.

I couldn’t have wished for a more comfortable bed for the 13 hour sleep I had on my first evening (after 30 hours without it)

Spending 15 minutes each day in the complimentary steam and sauna room in the Spa helped me recover from jet lag.

The buffet breakfast and dinners were also delicious and full of Jordanian food. Hotel breakfast and dinner buffets are included in the Globus tour.

There are local restaurants within walking distance to the hotel if you want to eat out.

You will love having 5 Star accommodation at affordable prices on your Escape by Globus tours.

Day 3: Wadi Rum

keffiyeh (Bedouin scarf)
Love the keffiyeh (Bedouin scarf)

It’s about a four-hour drive from Amman to Wadi Rum, which was the southernmost part of our Jordan tour.

Make use of the wi-fi, enjoy the desert views out the window – you may even see a camel or two crossing the road.

Along the way, Osama gave us a lesson on how to wear a keffiyeh. These striking red and white scarves are the headwear of the Bedouins, who are the Arab desert nomads.

We then had a chance to put our own head scarf on (a souvenir gift from Globus) to wear in Wadi Rum Dessert. You’ll be surprised at how comfortable they are.

wadi rum desert
We had lunch in one of those giant balls. These are the sleeping ones.

After a quick buffet lunch at our Wadi Rum arrival point, we jumped on the back of 4×4 trucks (the modern camel) to drive across the sandy desert and past the red granite and sandstone rock formations..

wadi rum jordan 4x4 scenic drive
Look at this beautiful scenery
Lawrence Canyon, WAdi Rum
4WD adventure through Lawrence Canyon, Wadi Rum

We first stopped in Lawrence Canyon, named after Sir Lawrence of Arabia, who once traveled through this area of Wadi Rum. You can see carved images of him and King Abdullah I in the rock and the cliff faces.

Hollywood filmed the first scenes from the movie Lawrence of Arabia here, as was Martian with Matt Damon, and the latest blockbuster, Dunes.

After visiting the canyon, we continued driving across Wadi Rum until we came across a Bedouin Camel Caravan.

Camels are an important part of the Bedouin life, as a source of food, transport, and a sign of wealth. Some of us decided to ride the camels to a Bedouin camp for tea.

You can read this post for our hilarious frothing camel encounter and you can see a reel here!

riding a camel in wadi rum
Amazing camel ride in Wadi Rum

It was only about a 20 minute ride across the sandy desert to the camp, and since riding a camel can be uncomfortable, this was the prefect amount of time.

When we arrived, a group of robed Bedouin men brewed us sage tea over an open fire and Osama shared more with us about their lifestyle.

Tea with the Bedouins
Tea with the Bedouins

A Bedouin family invited us to their open fire near the tent where they demonstrated how they cooked two types of bread – one thick and one thin – while we stood in the glow of the afternoon light deepening the colors and textures of the surrounding red rocks.

Globus tour of Jordan
Our host with Osama, our guide

My fellow tour friends said the breads were warm and delicious, especially dipped in oil and spices.

I was more enamored with the welcoming bright smile and graciousness of our host and his family. 

Accommodation: Movenpick Resort Petra

Movenpick Resort Petra rooms
Comfortable rooms

After Wadi Rum we drove straight to Petra for a two night stay.

You couldn’t find better accommodation in Petra than the 5-Star Movenpick Resort. It’s right across the road from the Petra Visitor Center and the gate to the historical city. 

I loved the interior design of this Petra resort filled with Middle Eastern fabrics, marble floors, handcrafted wood, embroidered chairs and water fountains.

Sadly, the popular Al Ghadeer rooftop garden is only open during the summer, so we missed their superb sunset view over the Petra Hills. But, I did enjoy a glass of Jordanian chardonnay in the Arabian inspired Al Maqa’ad bar with its gold leaf walls! 

As you’ll be spending long days exploring while in Petra, you’ll appreciate the ease of the buffet breakfast and dinner included in the Globus tour. 

If you want something else, the hotel is surrounded by restaurant options in Wadi Musa, which is the town on the edge of Petra.

Day 4: Full Day Exploring Petra

hiking through petra
Hiking through Petra

Lace up your best pair of walking boots and spend the day exploring the vast ancient city of Petra, Jordan. It’s definitely one of the best things to do in Jordan.

There is a reason the Globus Jordan itinerary allows for an entire day to explore the Red Rose City. This New Wonder of the World is 263 square kilometers big (roughly 50,000 football fields). Can you believe archaeologists have only uncovered about 18% of it so far?

the great temple petra
The crumbling remains of the Great Temple

It was built by the Nabateans more than 2,000 years ago in the heart of the mountains between the Red Sea and Dead Sea, which allowed it to become an important city on the major trading route connecting Mesopotamia and Egypt.

Caravans would stop here to trade and refresh before continuing their journey. With the tolls and services Petra provided it was a very wealthy society and, at one stage, it accounted for 35% of Roman income.

Many stories lay beyond the 1.2 km Siq trail leading to the Treasury, which is considered the main attraction of Petra, and the most iconic view. (See The Treasury in this Reel)

Keep walking past the Treasury to explore the hundreds of caves, or tombs, carved into the cliff faces, as well as elaborate temples, a theater carved into the side of the mountain, The Colonnaded Street, and the crumbling remains of free-standing buildings like the Great Temple.

A canyon
Carvings and tombs are everywhere
desert
The theater

I highly recommend walking up the nearly 1,000 stairs (you can do it) to see The Monastery, which is just as grand as the Treasury, and maybe more impactful as it’s so unexpected.

monastery hike petra 1000 stairs
It’s worth all the stairs
the monastery petra jordan -2
Our first glimpse of Petra at the Monastery

I enjoyed drinking a freshly squeezed lemon mint juice from the small café in the shade here, staring in awe at what they think was a church or tomb, and wondering just how on earth they carved all of that into the rock.

Are humans even capable of such commitment, patience, and elaborate artistry anymore?

It’s a great moment to pay homage to this society that revered women, forbade prostitution and slavery, paid people what they were worth, and engineered a world that existed in harmony with Mother Nature.

As part of the Jordan Escape tour by Globus, you will have a guide leading you through Petra and teaching you a lot about this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

hiking into Petra
Hiking in through the back door of Petra

Our blogging group explored Petra quite in-depth on a 9-mile hike through the back door. Because of that we did not have time to take advantage of the Little Petra optional excursion Globus offers for the afternoon.

Petra By Night

The treasury petra lit up at night
The Treasury at night

I know you may be tired by the end of the day, but I recommend keeping your boots on and enjoying Petra by Night (if it is on). I was glad I dragged my weary feet down there. It’s a beautiful addition to a magical Petra experience. It will cost an extra $17.

Petra is an opportunity to experience the darkness of the desert, only guided by the light of a thousand candles. 

You can read more about our nine-mile Petra hike and Petra by night here

Day 5 Petra – Dead Sea (with stops)

Today was a relaxing day driving to the Dead Sea with some memorable stops in between.

Kerak Castle

The ruins of Kerak Castle
Kerak Castle

Along the popular King’s Highway, is the impressive Kerak Castle sitting 900m above sea level inside the walls of the old city of Kerak.

This Crusader Castle was built in 1140 is on the largest and best-preserved castle in Jordan

Its strategic location on the narrow southern tip of the triangular plateau made it the target of many sieges, some more successful than others. It also helped the Crusaders rule with an iron fist over the traders and travelers crossing the Holy Lands.

It was one of the last outposts held by the Crusaders after Jerusalem was recaptured by the legendary Saladin in 1187.

Inside, are tunnels, dark chambers and dungeons, and vast, arched-roof stables to explore.

old stone ruins
Kerak Castle
kerak castle jordan

We spent an hour exploring the ruins of the Crusader castle, including going underground to the cramped, dark prison cells whose prisoners sadly never got to see the impressive large sweeping views from the castle grounds.

Unless the guards threw them over the castle walls trapped inside a box with just their head showing. Then they got to see the views. God love humans and their barbaric ways. WTF is wrong with us?

Flying boxes aside, on clear days, you can look across the Dead Sea and see all the way to the Mount of Olives bordering Jerusalem.

Wadi Mujib: The Grand Canyon of Jordan

A view of a desert
Stunning drive through Wadi Mujib

Wadi Mujib may only have been a quick photo stop on our way to the Dead Sea, but it was a memorable one.

We wound 900 meters down the King’s Highway to a dam at the bottom of the wadi before winding back up to our canyon viewpoint.

Wadi Mujib is part of the Mujib Biosphere Reserve located on the eastern flank of the Jordan Rift Valley. The Mujib River runs through here as it makes its way to the Dead Sea, the lowest point on earth.

A view of a canyon
I wand to explore this canyon!

Apart from spectacular views, Wadi Mujib is known for outdoor adventure, mostly canyoneering. A reader recommended the popular Siq Trail as one of the best things to do in Jordan.

I’m inspired to return to and explore the depths of what they call The Grand Canyon of Jordan.

The rest of our drive coming into the Dead Sea was spectacular as the sun was setting and we drove through the area where Moses led the Israelites to the Promised Land. (more about that below)

Floating in the Dead Sea

person floating on dead sea
Floating on the Dead Sea

How could floating in the Dead Sea NOT be one of the best things to do in Jordan?

The Dead Sea is 35% salt and packed full of wonderful minerals for your body.

At 420 meters below sea level, it is also the lowest point on earth. Because of the high barometric pressure at this point, the air around the Dead Sea is up to eight percent richer in oxygen than that at sea level.

There is no place on earth quite like it.

dead sea mud
A pot full of goodness

Time to mud up, breathe deep, sit back and float, and get ready to walk out looking ten years longer.

It feels quite awkward floating on the Dead Sea. First because you have to resist the natural urge to dive headfirst into the water, and second because you have to learn how to let go and trust your body will just float.

You can trust the science on this one, the Dead Sea will hold you afloat. (see more in this Reel)

two girls covered in mud dead sea
Mudding up with friends

I was worried the water would be cold, but at 22 degrees it was quite pleasant. As soon as you get out, your swimsuit is practically dry. My skin felt slimy, yet soft at first, but it didn’t take long before it felt salty crusty.

The views as the sun sets behind the Israel mountains on the other side are gorgeous.

Then you’re only a few steps up to the pool bar and spa for a sunset drink after it.

I also went in the morning with my friend Susan and we had the whole sea to ourselves. 

Movenpick Resort and Spa, Dead Sea

Pool area overlooking Dead Sea Movenpick resort
Movenpick resort pool area overlooking the Dead Sea

The Movenpick Resort and Spa at the Dead Sea was the perfect example of what good value the Jordan Escape by Globus tour is.

Visiting Jordan in the off-season on this tour meant we got to stay at this luxurious 5-star resort right on the edge of the Dead Sea for a much cheaper price.

It wasn’t crowded at all and the weather was warm enough to go for a swim in the Dead Sea from the resort’s private beach.

The pool area was beautiful with views, a sandy beach, and a spa. There were several restaurants at the resort to choose from for dinner if you did not want to eat at the included buffet dinner . We had a delicious Italian meal on one of our night’s at the resort while watching some belly dancing entertainment in the courtyard.

view of Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort
View of the Dead Sea from Zara Spa’s infinity pool

We had free time on our last afternoon of the tour so I booked in for a hot and cold stone massage at Movenpick’s Zara Spa, which is said to be one of the best spas in Jordan. It was sensational.

If you spend $100+ on a treatment you get access to the spa’s amenities, which include a saltwater floatation pool and two infinity pools with the most amazing Dead Sea Views. (Check out the views in this Reel)

If you have time, it may even be worth it just to pay for the pool access. 

Day 6: Dead Sea & Religious Historical Sites

My focus for most of this Jordan tour was on the highlights of Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea. I didn’t think too much about the full day we’d spend exploring significant religious historical sites in what is known as the Holy Lands.

It turned out to be just as good impactful and memorable as hiking through Petra.

Bethany Beyond the Jordan

bethany beyond the Jordan
The place where Jesus was baptized

Bethany Beyond the Jordan was a spiritual experience my lapsed Catholic self was not expecting. It reminded me that while I don’t believe in religious constructs, I always have believed in and liked Jesus and his teachings of kindness, acceptance, and love. 

So being at the place where Jesus was baptized by St John the Baptist (the name of the school I attended) was quite monumental and moving. (You can read more of that experience here)

In a lifetime of travel experiences through over 50 countries, this is one that will sit with high definition clarity at the top of my memory box. 

Where Jesus was baptized Jordan

Bethany Beyond the Jordan is a religious site that was only uncovered about twenty years ago. Multiple sources prove that this was the exact place pilgrims traveled for thousands of years to honor Jesus, St John, and the beginnings of Christianity. 

I promise you there is a special kind of sacred energy here. 

Jesus’ baptismal site is now a little back from the Jordan River as it has shrunk over the years. They have diverted the water from the river into a sacred pool shaped like a cross to honor this place of significance. (You can see more in this Reel)

Elijah Hill Bethany beyond the jordan
Elijah Hill

There are several sites to visit in the area, including Elijah’s Hill where it said the prophet Elijah rose into the heavens on a fiery chariot. 

You can also see St John’s cave where he began his ministry and lived for many years. The remains of a church built around the cave points to its significance. 

st john the Baptist cave jordan
St John the Baptist’s Cave

There are also several churches in the area, one being the beautiful Greek Orthodox St John the Baptist church of St John built in 2003 on the banks of the Jordan River. Israel lies very close on the other side, and the banks are strangely lined with gum trees.

READ MORE: Visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan: Where Jesus was Baptized

Madaba Archaeological Park & Museum

A close up of a brick wall with tile designs
Madaba Mosaics

Only about an hour from Amman is the town of Madaba, also known as the City of Mosaics.

Founded 4,500 years ago, Madaba flourished during the Byzantine era as a regional center of religious life before being destroyed in an earthquake in the 8th century AD.

It lay forgotten for over a thousand years, until the late 19th century when a dispute over the building of new churches led to people digging to uncover the old ones.

In the process, they uncovered a city of marvelous mosaics, many of which have been restored and preserved. It’s estimated many more lie hidden under Madaba homes.

The Madaba Archaeological Park & Museum complex includes the remains of several Byzantine churches, the famous Madaba Mosaic Map, the outstanding mosaics of the Church of the Virgin and the Hippolytus Hall, part of a 6th century mansion.

St George’s Church and the Madaba Mosaic Map

The Madaba Map in St George Church
The Madaba Map in St George Church

Built at the end of the 19th Century, this Greek Orthodox Church is home to one of the most important relics from the Byzantine era: The Madaba Mosaic Map.

They uncovered part of it during construction, and the map now sits protected on the floor of St George’s Church. There is only about a quarter of the map left in existence.

The Madaba Map Jordan
Part of the Madaba Map

The Mosaic Map was created in the 6th Century to help Pilgrims find their way around the Holy Land. Intricate details show the location of the Holy Land sites spread across modern-day Jordan, Israel, the Palestinian Territories and Egypt’s Sinai.

It was one of the sources that helped them determine Bethany beyond the Jordan was the exact location of Jesus’ baptism.

Before we looked at the map, Osama showed us a re-creation of what the in-tact original may have looked like, pointing out the places of significance. Without this, it would have been difficult to understand as it’s just bits and pieces of a map. 

As we had visited a few of the historical sites on this Jordan trip, I enjoyed looking at the map and putting it all together.

It gave me a tiny insight into how it must have felt to be a pilgrim looking at this map to help fulfill your quest. A bit like how I felt in my first years of travel with a Lonely Planet guidebook and map in hand.

Church of the Virgin Mary and Hippolytus Hall

In 1887, a large floor mosaic with three inscriptions was unearthed in an ancient building occupied by a Madaba family. The inscriptions identified the place as the Church of the Virgin Mary.

It wasn’t until 1972 that they began excavations and discovered that the church was built above the hall of an earlier Madaba Mansion known as Hippolytus Hall.

There’s more.

This sixth century mansion was built upon a circular Roman temple, which you can see from the circular nave in the church.

You can walk around the remains of the church and mansion and enjoy the beautiful mosaics within.

Church of the Virgin Mary Madaba floor mosaics
The circular nave of the Roman temple

Hippolytus Hall is named for the floor mosaic that depicts characters of the tragedy of Phaedra and Hippolytus. 

Again, it’s mind-blowing how intact and beautiful these buildings and mosaics are that are thousands of years old!

Mount Nebo and the Promised Land

mount nebo jordan
Mount Nebo Memorial

Mount Nebo is a historical sight of huge religious significance. It’s the place where Moses looked out over the Promised Land of Canaan.

God forbade him from going any further and, as the scriptures say, he died here before leading his people down to it. It is said Moses is buried in this area, but no one knows where.

And now you can see that same Promised Land view: The Dead Sea, the Jordan River valley, Jericho, Bethlehem, and the distant hills of Jerusalem.

view from mount nebo
The Promised Land

Mount Nebo became a place of pilgrimage and in the 4th century monks built a small church on the peaks to commemorate the end of Moses’ life.

The church later expanded into a large basilica with a stunning collection of Byzantine mosaics, which can still be seen today in the present-day church.

Outside the church is a bronze serpentine cross, the Brazen Serpent Monument by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni.

It’s designed to merge the bronze serpent Moses set on a pole in the desert that would heal and save his people with the cross upon which Jesus was crucified to save the world.

Day 7: The Return!

What you do on this final day of your Jordan tour depends on what time you are flying out. Globus will transfer you directly to Amman airport from the Movenpick Resort and Spa. 

Hot Tip: My flight was early morning, so I left the resort about 10pm. Had I known how great the Dead Sea Resort and Spa was, I would have delayed my flight until the following day and stayed an extra night and morning. 

You can learn more about the 7-Day Jordan Escape Tour By Globus here and here is our extensive guide with travel tips for Jordan

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Comment: Do you have any questions about my Jordan trip? Do you have any best things to do in Jordan to add to the list?

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10 Memorable Experiences on A Visit to Jordan – Yala, Yala https://www.ytravelblog.com/visit-to-jordan-highlights/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/visit-to-jordan-highlights/#comments Fri, 11 Mar 2022 15:45:11 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=130810 10 Memorable Experiences on A Visit to Jordan – Yala, Yala Read More »

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Yala in Arabic means “Let’s Go!” It was a favorite phrase of Osama, our tour guide on our 7-day Jordan Escape tour by Globus. It was a phrase I soon grew to love for it’s curt push towards yet another extraordinary Jordan experience.

wadi rum tour of jordan
Happy in Jordan

This Middle Eastern country has been on my list of places to visit in the world for many years. I’ve heard nothing but glowing praise from the many friends I know who have visited.

They all said the same thing, “the people are so lovely.”

I fell in love with the people on my first transfer ride from the airport with Khalid. During our 40-minute drive he taught me a lot about the history and culture of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan (through a fun game format) You can read more about that here.

The same warm interactions continued throughout the Jordan trip, even with the two young men in the shawarma shop, who attempted to understand the ineffective Google translate for “I can’t eat gluten”.

Through a game of charades and many smiles, we reached an understanding to leave the bread off my plate, even though one continued to offer it to me, bewildered as to why I’d say no.

the treasury petra jordan
The Treasury, Petra

From the people to the food, to the stunning landscapes, and big-ticket attractions, my visit to Jordan was incredible and has inspired me to explore more of the Middle East.

In this post, I’ll share my most favorite memories – it might not be the exact top attraction or thing to do in Jordan, but the story within it.

As our tagline says “Travel More. Create Better Memories.”

Be present, seek out moments, small and large, that make you laugh, and give you stories to share around the campfire for years to come.

Your travels are less about what to see and do, but more about how you feel, connect, and embrace.

In my next post, I share the best things to do in Jordan in a 7-day itinerary outline.

I joined this Jordan tour as part of a paid campaign and traveled without Craig and the girls.

Subscribe to my email community so you don’t miss all the travel updates and insider tips.

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GLOBUS DISCOUNT JUST FOR YOU!

We’ve secured an exclusive yTravel discount: Save $100 per person on select 2023 and 2024 Globus and Avalon Waterway Vacations. Use the code: YTRAVEL when booking online at the Globus, Cosmos, and Avalon Waterways websites, by calling Globus and Avalon Waterways directly, or booking with a preferred Travel Advisor. Terms & Conditions.

Several of the experiences below were organized by Visit Jordan and not part of the Globus tour.

The Baptismal Site of Jesus at Bethany Beyond the Jordan

Beyond the bethany where jesus was baptized
Where Jesus was baptized. Note it’s shaped like a cross

I didn’t think too much about visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan, the place where Jesus was baptized by John over 2,000 years ago.

Not only was I raised Catholic and attended Catholic schools, but I also got my teaching degree at the Catholic University and taught in Catholic schools.

But since I’m no longer practicing, I wasn’t in the “this is a big deal” kind of thinking. In fact, I thought it was going to be the most uninteresting part of our Jordan tour.

Well, the sacred energy of this place immediately snuck into my nonchalant perspective and grounded me down into a spiritual experience.

That was in part due to the enthusiasm of our guide Rustom Mkhjian, the Director General of Bethany Beyond the Jordan, who shared poof that this was the exact place where John baptized Jesus in the Jordan River.

As we were there early before the crowds and on a private tour arranged by Globus, Rustom allowed us to go down to the water and bless ourselves with it.

Where Jesus was baptized Jordan
Amazing experience

Being at the front of the line, I was stressed I was going to mess this up, but thankfully, I remembered to make the sign of the cross. My years of church attendance not completely lost on me.

It was only later that it hit me how monumental it was to be at the place where one of the most well-known, influential, and historically significant figures of all human history was baptized.

Even an atheist would respect the magnitude of a moment like that.

I wish I spent less time grappling with my phone to capture the essence and more time standing silently to soak it all up.

READ MORE: Visiting Bethany Beyond the Jordan: Where Jesus was Baptized

You can see my video Reel of the experience below:

Taking a 9-Mile Hike Through Petra

hiking into Petra
Hiking in through the back door of Petra

Wonders of the World (new and old) are high on the bucket list of any traveler.

Walking out of the Siq – the curving red and orange canyon path into Petra – and gazing upon the Treasury – the most iconic view of Petra – is a remarkable sight worthy of the New World Wonder label. (See more in this Reel)

the treasury and siq petra jordan
Yeah, okay, so that is a World Wonder!

Through my years of travel, I’ve found that it’s not those iconic snapshots that stay with you forever, but more how you approach them, or what you do that lies beyond.

For example, it’s not the 15 minute “I was here” photo of the average Grand Canyon visitor that has been in my bag of travel stories for 15 years, but the 11-mile hike Craig and I did into its depths.

In Petra, Jordan it’s the 9-mile hike we took to approach this ancient Rock City via the back door. It was several miles before we even reached the back door!

petra hike back door
Such a different perspective

This trail (best with a guide) took us through a stunning desert landscape with breathtaking views of the mountains and across the wide basin of Wadi Araba.

It gave a sense of what it must have looked and felt like riding in and out of Petra thousands of years ago in your trading caravan.

You will climb several stairs through out the hike, but apart from that, it’s not too strenuous.

back door hike to petra with guide
Abdullah pointing out the view

Doing it with a guide means you won’t get lost (easy to do) and will give you a deeper insight into Petra’s history, and the desert mountain world. Our private guide, Abdullah pointed out details that would otherwise be overlooked, like the wine vats, water tanks, and areas of the Holy Land stretched out across the views in front of us.

Our first glimpse of this UNESCO Heritage Site was of The Monastery. This unknown structure – possibly a church or tomb – is similar to the Treasury in style and grandiose, but bigger and more unexpected.

the monastery petra jordan -2
Our first glimpse of Petra at the Monastery

To be honest, before visiting Petra on our Globus tour, I wasn’t even really aware that much existed beyond the Treasury.

I’m grateful we experienced it on this hike with Abdullah, who shared so much about the society and city the Nabataean people created way back in the 4th Century BC.

Our Petra guide, Abdullah
Abdullah, our guide

As we discovered on our hike through a small part of the 263 square kilometres (roughly 50,000 football fields) region of Petra, this place is massive with so many tombs and buildings to explore.

Perspective: It takes about 20-30 minutes just to walk down the 1.2km Siq to reach the Treasury. They have only uncovered about 18% of Petra so far. No wonder it’s one of the best things to do in Jordan!

It’s mind boggling to contemplate how they carved out these massive structures, tombs, theaters and complex irrigation systems made from clay pipes that delivered an abundance of fresh, clean drinking water to the desert dwellers.

red rock ruins
Tombs carved into the rock
the great temple petra
The crumbling remains of the Great Temple

Without Abudullah, I may never have seen beyond its impressive physical realm.

I learned so much more about the Nabadeans and how they created a wealthy society that revered women, forbade prostitution and slavery, paid people what they were worth, and engineered a world that existed in harmony with mother Nature.

How did we go wrong and stray so far from this ideal path?

We extended our nine miles of hiking by walking back in to experience Petra by Night. Even though our legs protested, it was fun walking down the dark Siq, only lit by lanterns on either side of the path and the starry sky above, to arrive at the Treasury.

The treasury petra lit up at night
The Treasury at night

The only light was from the evenly spaced candles laid out on the desert ground in front of the shadowy outline of the Treasury.

A desert dweller stood amongst the candles playing an Jordanian tune on a flute, bringing harmony to the quiet, dark stillness. After a bit of storytelling about Petra and the Nabateans, colored lights illuminated the Treasury.

I took this moment to completely forget all my photography skills and not turn up my ISO to capture the beautiful Petra by night. At least I got the thousands of candles in front okay!

Please spend longer than a quick “I was here photo” in front of the Treasury in Petra. An abundance of riches lies a little further down the path. 

A Sunset Float in the Dead Sea

view of Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort
View of the Dead Sea from Movenpick Resort (Israel in the distance)

Before this trip to Jordan, I thought floating in the Dead Sea was something you did in Israel. Middle Eastern Geography was obviously not my strong suit, as the Dead Sea is the border between Jordan and Israel.

In fact, you can see Israel from the Jordan side, which is especially beautiful when the sun sets behind the Israeli mountains.

We were staying at the gorgeous Movenpick Resort & Spa on the Dead Sea, which had private beach access to the water.

person floating on dead sea
Floating on the Dead Sea

The Dead Sea is 35% salt and packed full of wonderful minerals for your body.

At 420 meters below sea level, it is also the lowest point on earth. Because of the high barometric pressure at this point, the air around the Dead Sea is up to eight percent richer in oxygen than that at sea level.

So now all you have to do is mud up, breathe deep, and sit back and float. Get ready to walk out looking ten years longer.

You’ll find clay pots on the rocky shore filled with thick black mud to spread over your body before getting into the water.

 dead sea mud
A pot full of goodness

It feels quite awkward floating on the Dead Sea. First because you have to resist the natural urge to dive headfirst into the water, and second because you have to learn how to let go and trust your body will just float.

You can trust the science on this one, the Dead Sea will hold you afloat.

It was a little choppy when we visited, so we did have to use our body a little more to ensure we didn’t roll over, or let the water get in our eyes or mouth. I can assure you it tastes pretty disgusting. (Spitting during COVID times is pretty awkward!)

two girls covered in mud dead sea
Mudding up with friends

This was a fun way to end a great Jordan trip with friends. We had a lot of laughs filming each other caked in mud and floating in the Dead Sea. See more in the Reel here.

I’ll share more about this resort and the amazing massage I had in the Spa before my float in my next post. I definitely want to bring Craig and the girls back here! 

The Hilarious Frothing Camel Ride through Wadi Rum

wadi rum jordan 4x4 scenic drive
Look at this beautiful scenery

My entire experience in Wadi Rum was exceptional, from bouncing around on the back of a 4×4 pickup and laughing with my blogging friends, to sipping tea in a Bedouin camp, having a Bedouin family cook traditional bread over a fire, and gazing in awe at the spectacular desert scenery of red rock sandstone and granite formations and sand dunes.

You may recognize it from movie scenes like Martian and Lawrence of Arabia (who once roamed through the area we were exploring.)

riding a camel in wadi rum
The Pack

My greatest memory though – one that I’m still giggling over– was our short 20-minute camel ride across the sand to the Bedouin camp.

I hesitated on saying yes, but how could you not ride a camel through a Middle Eastern desert?

This ancient form of transportation is a central part of the Bedouins’ life as a source of food, sign of wealth, and means of getting around.

two women on a camel in the Jordan desert
Ready to get up!

If you’ve ever hopped on top of a camel – or alighted from one – you know it’s an awkward experience that upends your brain’s perception of what a safe animal mounting is.

There is only one heightened sense – “Oh My God, I’m going over the camel’s head to face-plant in the sand.”

After surviving the mount, I was threatened with falling off again – through no fault of my calm and steady dromedary, but by the uncontrollable laughter trembling through my body giving me the ultimate core workout.

riding a camel in jordan
Bedouin leads the camels

We were short a couple of camels for our large group, so our Bedouin guide ran off to retrieve more. He returned trailing behind him a camel that looked as if rabies and COVID had just had a party on his face.

White foam was frothing out of its nose and mouth like someone had put too many suds in the washing machine. Every now and then his tongue lagged out of his mouth, which only ramped up the intensity of our screeching laughter.

man next to a camel
The camel – and this was after it calmed down a little!

Michael from Helene in Between did not look perturbed at all, ignoring our suggestions (interrupted by roars of laughter) that it wasn’t a good idea to ride it as something was obviously wrong.

But he got the inside scoop from the guide and jumped on and rode like a King. I could barely look over for fear of falling off the camel again.

Bedouin leading camel pack in desert
Leading the pack

Michael told us after the ride that the male camel was actually frothing at the mouth because there was a girl camel in the pack that was on heat.

I cannot begin to tell you the gratitude I felt in that moment to be part of the human species and not the camel kind! I’m pretty sure that would be the end of humankind. 

Meeting Maya and the Scent for Color Program

scent for color art for the blind
With Maya and Ella at Darat Suhail Art Center

Maya is possibly the most extraordinary young woman I’ve ever met. She was born with macular degeneration and can see only blurred images and can’t distinguish between faces or hues of colors.

Distinguish is a word she used.

Maya had flawless English, self-taught through YouTube channels. She could also speak Spanish, French, and of course Arabic, although she says English is more her first language now.

She could also mimic the different accents in our traveling group, even the very difficult Australian accent.

Maya is only 18. She’s studying at university with high honors, she can paint, and sings like Camillo Cabello’s protégé.

She had a spirit that outshone the entire room, a confidence like no other, and she radiated joy and kindness as she engaged with everyone in the room.

We met her while visiting the Darat Suhail for Art center in Amman and learning about their Scent of Color program.

The founder, Suhail Baqueen, had taken us on a tour of the Jordan Gallery of Fine Arts in the morning, and was now sharing his own art space and gallery dedicated to teaching children with visual impairments to express themselves through art.

Using essential oils, they add scent to paints and markers, so the budding arts can identify color, and then turn what they see in their imaginations into a piece of art. For example, lemon is yellow, mint is green, and bubblegum is blue.

Suhail travels the country conducting workshops to help those who are visually impaired create their own canvas masterpieces.

We also met the quieter Ella and Yusuf, who also beamed when talking in their limited English about the program.

Jordan art center
Suhail shares with us about his Scent for Color program

Maya showed me that with a strength of spirit, there is no challenge that can’t somehow be turned into a blessing and gift.

All of us continued to speak about her for the rest of the day and beyond. It sparked great conversations, curious questions, and awe and wonder at what humans are capable of – creating beautiful pieces of art in perfect color without ever having seen the image in real form.

I’m so thankful for this experience in Amman provided to us by Globus and Visit Jordan. I love to experience the warm, inspiring spirit of the local people and see how communities are making a difference.

These are the real stories of the countries you visit, and it’s worth digging a little deeper beyond the tourist attractions and media stories to find them.

Here is Maya’s Tik Tok account if you want to get to know her: maya5alid_99 Yet another thing she is rocking!

Riding through the streets of Amman in a royal vehicle

King Hussein royal car jordan
On our Royal procession

Unfortunately, driving through the streets of Amman in a vehicle fit for a King is not an experience you can arrange.

But I want to include it here as this is my travel blog with personal experiences AND I love to help you see the magic of possibilities and unexpected surprises. Life is full of them.

As any travel writer, travel blogger, or travel influencer will tell you, our jobs are pretty special and allow us to explore the world in such a unique way. (Even though it’s demanding work that’s made to look effortless).

inside royal car jordan
With my friend Lina from Divergent Travelers

Somehow this weirdly wonderful path led me inside a navy-blue Mercedes Benz owned by the King of Jordan. In full character, we administered Royal waves to the fascinated spectators smiling, waving, and taking our photos as we cruised around Jordan’s capital city, Amman.

If only they knew who was really sitting begin those bullet proof windows.

We knew the windows were bullet proof because our driver cocked his finger at the window demonstrating we were well protected.

amman jordan royal family car
Our Royal driver with David

David, Lina and I switched from solving the world’s problems to giddy conversations, giggles and exclamations at “how did we end up here?” driving around a Royal procession of BMWs, Mercedes Benz, and even a NYC yellow cab with a pilot car and Royal drivers.

We’re convinced our Royal driver could speak English but was keeping it on the quiet – and possibly laughing so hard on the inside at our silly banter to “Know your Status” and wondering when the King would invite us around for dinner. (probably our next trip to Jordan.) See the Reel here.

royal automobile jordan
Like my ride?

Just where did we get these Royal cars? Here’s where an Amman attraction you can do comes in.

The Royal Automobile Museum, Amman

Royal automobile museum jordan
Royal Automobile Museum

Since I can’t really tell the difference between a Lamborghini and a Porsche and I’m only interested in a car that can take me on fun road trip adventures, I wasn’t so thrilled at the idea of walking through this museum looking at cars.

But, I actually found it to be a fascinating insight into the history of modern Jordan and the late King Hussein’s extensive private collection of the world’s finest vintage motor vehicles.

The automobile collection includes armored vehicles, sports cars, motorcycles, and rally cars. It shares the stories behind several of them including famous people who rode in them.

You can even see Matt Damon’s Mars exploration vehicle from The Martian movie, which was shot in Wadi Rum in 2014.

King Hussein’s son, King Abdullah II of Jordan, (also an expert racer and lover of cars) created the museum as a tribute to the story of his much-loved father’s life.

Eating Delicious Jordanian Food

I’m now almost weeping each morning into my boring bowl of porridge dreaming of a warm bowl of Foul Mudammas (fava beans) covered in spices and tahini, followed by labneh drizzled with local honey and topped with dried apricots, figs, and nuts; and finishing with halawa, a sweet filling treat made of sesame seed paste and flavored with nuts.

And this was just in the hotel breakfast buffets. How can a buffet breakfast be so good? Definitely not like the over sugary cereal and toasted bagels you’ll find in most hotels in the USA.

Normally, I’d be running straight for the local breakfast cafe. I was thrilled that we had such great quality hotels (and buffets) on this busy tour. Another benefit was it gave us more time to explore the Jordan attractions as we could easily grab a quick breakfast.

In Jordan, I was delighted to discover a cuisine that catered to my gluten-free requirements.

Even though I missed a few sticky sweets and warm pita straight from the oven to dip in oil and za’atar, I still felt compensated by the mouthwatering beef stews, lamb mansaf, upside-down chicken and rice, and fresh-from-the-garden salads. And pomegranate on everything!

None of us on the tour can forget the refreshing, and freshly squeezed, lemon mint juices we all requested whenever we could to parch our desert thirst.

One of my favorite memories is drinking lemon mint juice, on a break at the Monastery on our Petra hike (see below) and chatting with Abdullah, our guide.

Another is chatting with our Globus tour guide, Osama, about Australia over a delicious lunch. He lived on the Sunshine Coast for a short time. Strangely, he did not feel any kind of love for vegemite, but did for our weird lingo!

These conversations were interspersed with Osama stopping to tell me about each new Jordanian dish served. Having these exchanges with him warmed my heart. 

And the dates were so good, that Kalyra demolished half the pack I bought home as a treat for Craig. I don’t think our teen has even eaten a date before!

The Jordanian bagpipes playing in the Jerash Theater

South theater of jerash
South Theater of Jerash

Jerash is an ancient, crumbling Roman city located just 50km from Amman. It is known to be one of the best-preserved Roman-era cities in the world.

Actually, Alexander the great originally founded Jerash (or Gerasa) as a Greek City in the 4th Century BC. You can still see the Greek inscriptions in the crumbling remains of the façade that once faced the city.

About three hundred years later, the Romans took control where it grew to be one of the most impressive Roman cities to ever exist.

Unlike other ancient Roman cities, you will see little restoration; all buildings are as it was during the Roman days (or how it has crumbled since). Spend a few hours here contemplating that as you walk around exploring what’s left of cultural centers like temples, theaters, and hippodromes.

zeus temple jerash
The Temple of Zeus

My favorite memory of Jerash is sitting on the limestone carved seats of the South Theater of Jerash listening to a Jordanian bagpipe band.

Built between 90-92AD, this well preserved theater was made to seat more than 3,000 spectators. The center of the state has remarkable acoustics, projecting sound throughout the entire orchestra floor without needing amplification.

Jordanian bagpipe jerash
The Jerash Theater band

A trio of robed Jordanian musicians in red keffiyehs (Bedouin headdress) serenaded us with tunes such as “Amazing Grace?” “Yankee Doodle?” and finishing with an upbeat conga line.

Confused about the bagpipes? They do no not originate from Scotland, but have ancient roots in the Middle East, which slowly evolved into European culture. Early writings also depict Roman Emperor Nero as a player of the bagpipes.

jerash theater amman
What a beautiful view

What made this moment more special was the stunning backdrop of ancient and modern Jerash behind the elaborately carved stage. It gave you quite a sense of the scale and beauty of Jerash and what it must have been like to sit here and watch a show in ancient Roman times.

In this moment, I felt incredibly grateful to be living in a modern world that has granted me a window to an ancient world.

bagpipe player south theater of jerash
With the bagpipe player

I wanted to forever remember this privilege and so paid a small donation to have a photo with the bagpipe player.

A young Jordanian man grabbed my camera to take the picture. For the next couple of minutes, he spun me around the theater directing me through a series of panoramic shots.

It was a funny memory and now I have photos of my (slightly distorted) face posing around the theater.

As soon as I walked out of the theater, I was approached by no less than five other people wanting to panoramic me! And I thought it was just my special treat! 

Beit Sitti: A Group Cooking Class in Amman

Jordanian cooking class in Amman
Cooking with Maria at Beit Sitti

What I loved about our cooking experience at Beit Sitti was that it truly felt like we were cooking with Grandmother.

Beit Sitti means “Grandmother’s house” in Arabic, and that’s exactly where we found ourselves for this Jordanian cooking class.

The house has a homely feel with its antique furniture, bold colors, family pictures hanging on the walls, and little Grandmotherly trinkets and knick-knacks. I instantly felt wrapped up in the warmth of a generation of stories.

Beit Sitti is a cooking school now owned and operated by Grandmother’s three granddaughters who wanted to keep her memory alive by opening her home to guests.

When they were young would teach them how to cook Arabic food and they now share those recipes with visitors to Amman.

One of the sisters, Chef Maria was our instructor for the evening’s cooking class and meal. She and her assistants were warm, friendly and encouraging, giving us a true sense of what it was like to be a guest in a Jordanian home.

Our kitchen was set up on the outside terrace and was beautiully draped with hanging plants, lemon trees and mewing kittens. It overlooked the pleasantly hilly neighborhood of Jabal al Weibdeh, one of the oldest in Amman.

Beit sitti cooking class jordan
Our terrace kitchen

Maria was full of life and laughter, yet quick to give instructions. She hurried us along when we needed and offered straight to the point feedback wrapped up in the love of a grandmother.

Her beautiful assistant helped me fry up the eggplant in the small inside kitchen. She would warmly pat my arm, and smile words of encouragement. In a few stilted words of English, she told me she was originally from Egypt and has lived here happily for many years.

Maria is focused not just on providing a warm, cultural, cooking experience, but works to empower women living in Amman. Beit Sitti employs local women to help with the classes, providing them with an income to sustain their families, and sometimes inspiring them to start their own businesses.

group Cooking class in Amman Jordan
Many travel blogger hands make light work

I loved how, instead of each of us creating an individual meal, we prepared a meal together, just like you would at home.

We all had specific tasks thrown at us by Maria, either chopping vegetables, folding dough, massaging spices into the chicken, and stirring dips.

As we prepared each dish, she would share more about the local ingredients, allowing us to taste some of them like freshly pressed olive oil and delicious homemade spice mixes as we went.

Somehow through all of that, and many laughs, we managed to create a feast of Chicken freekeh, mouttabal (smoky eggplant dip), farmers salad, eggplant fatteh, and a coconut cake for dessert.

A cooking class at Beit Sitti is an incredible introduction to learning about Arabic food and culture. And if you’re not visiting Jordan soon, you can cook some of these delicious Jordanian dishes at home as Maria shares recipes on her blog.

Dinner with a Jordanian Family in Petra

dinner with Jordanian family in petra
Enjoying dessert and conversation

After a long day of travel and exploring Wadi Rum, we arrived for dinner at Ameena’s family home in Petra quite tired.

Thank goodness I pulled myself away from the lure of my comfortable bed to this incredible cultural experience with Ameena’s family, which included her brother, daughters, nieces, and nephews.

Our dinner began with Ameena’s brother, Sohaeb pouring shots of coffee while sharing the coffee customs of the Bedouin (desert nomads).

receiving coffee jordan
Coffee shots!

In Jordanian culture, drinking coffee has more meaning and ritual than drinking tea, which is just like having a beer in the pub with friends and easy conversation.

After three shots of coffee, it’s customary to stop drinking, otherwise you’re telling the host her coffee is too weak. You can stop after one or two shots with a simple shake of your coffee glass.

If you push your coffee glass in front of you, it’s a sign you are asking for a request – this is usually done for serious business and conflict resolution. For the host, it means you have to do whatever is possible to fulfill the request of the person asking!

The family then took us into the kitchen to show how they dish up goat mansaf, a traditional Jordanian dish cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt. It’s traditionally made with lamb, but Ameena much prefers fresh goat. (mansaf recipe here)

man holding a tray of nachos
Sohaeb and the goat mansaf

Amena’s secret for the most tender meat is to use fresh meat – like right-from-the-fields fresh. In order for it to be its most tender, it must be under 20kg.

She then does all the cleaning and preparation herself. She refuses to use anything other than fresh food in her cooking – nothing frozen has ever passed her lips.

By now we were salivating and ready to move to the dining room to a feast of mansaf, roast chicken, salad, and eggplant fatteh.

Amena and Sohaeb sat with us and shared more about their family, their traditions, and customs like weddings that host up to 1,500 people for a week of celebrations and how the community pulls together when there is a death to help the grieving families.

Amena beamed with pride and love when she spoke of her children and how successful they are. Her eldest daughter, Subrina was due to fly out at 4:30am the next morning to Chicago to begin an internship with a doctor.

Instead of spending these last precious moments together, they chose to spend it with us. (We only later found out that all her children were deaf, and apart from a slight speech impediment, you never would have known.)

Throughout the meal, my eyes kept pricking with tears, so overcome I was by their warmth and hospitality. They welcomed 11 strangers into their home to “share from their heart, their happiness and gratitude that we would sit with them and get to know the Bedouin and Jordanian people. And then share it with you.”

Would my own culture do the same, especially with people who are so different?

Those tears threatened to spill over when Subrina walked over to sit behind her mother and lovingly embrace. The love between a mother and daughter is a universal bond. My tears came from sadness at missing my girls, but happiness that I too have this bond with my two precious daughters.

We moved to the living room for sage tea and dessert to further share our cultures. Subrina (amongst her packing) had cooked a mouth-watering gluten free carrot cake especially for me. I was overwhelmed by her consideration and kindness.

carrot cake jordan dessert
The most delicious carrot cake

I took a bite, my eyes widening in surprise at how moist and delicious it was, and turned to my friend Michael to tell him he needed to “go get a slice”.

I spied Subrina watching for my reaction, and I shouted, “this is absolutely delicious,” She sighed and broke into a broad grin.

These are the moments I live for and seek out when I travel.

These are the moments I most want to share with you – the warmth, goodness, and love that is present in all people around the world. We often forget, or refuse to see it, because of negative (sometimes false) narratives spilling out through our digital monitors.

In my travels spanning 24 years over 50 countries and cultures, I’ve rarely experienced a reality that strays too far from what we experienced in this Muslim home in Petra.

From people, who like you and me, just want to be seen and heard for their unique stories and the love and joy that emanates from within their hearts and homes.

These are the stories that will live in my heart the longest from our trip to Jordan. You can learn more about the Jordan Escape by Globus tour here.

Remember to subscribe so you don’t miss future Jordan content.

Click here and here to arrange a dinner with a family in Petra outside of a Globus tour.

READ MORE: 39 Things to know before you travel to Jordan

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Share in the comments some of your favorite Jordan, or Middle East experiences. Plus any tips you have for future readers, or questions I can answer!

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Recipe from Jordan: Mansaf https://www.ytravelblog.com/recipe-from-jordan-mansaf/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/recipe-from-jordan-mansaf/#comments Wed, 24 Apr 2013 11:56:36 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=30686 Recipe from Jordan: Mansaf Read More »

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When we first met Lorraine from Not Quite Nigella, she came bearing a slice of Red Velvet cake. I was in love.

Turns out, Lorraine happens to be one of Australia’s most popular food bloggers and the author of the just released book Not Quite Nigella: How I found happiness through butter.

Lorraine also loves to travel, so we asked if she could share one of her favourite recipes from her travels with us. Over to you Lorraine.

A plate of food on a table

Hi everyone! It’s Lorraine from Not Quite Nigella here and I’m absolutely thrilled to be guest posting on Caz and Craig’s fabulous blog!

When they asked me a while back, I said yes straight away, then I pondered what to write about. After chatting to Caz, I decided to post a recipe related to travel because of course Caz, Craig and their girls are such great travellers and adventurous eaters.

I must admit that I worry a little about people who don’t have the urge to travel. I understand that travelling is something that is reliant on budgets and finances, and I separate the people that want to travel but can’t, versus the people that don’t care to travel at all.

You do occasionally meet people that think they can see all they need to from the comfort of their own armchair. That’s fine. But here are five main reasons why I love to travel:

  1. To learn more about and meet people from different cultures.
  2. To eat food from different countries.
  3. To see views or vistas that I’ve never seen before.
  4. To gain perspective on things.
  5. To learn about words like Mansaf, Huckstering and Cattywampus!

I’m sort of half kidding about the last point, although when I was in America recently we both heard the terms Huckstering and Cattywampus. My husband and I looked at each other and immediately looked up the meaning. It turns out huckstering is promoting or selling something questionable, and cattywampus is a state of disarray, not to mention one of those words that you cannot get off your tongue and we’d find ourselves randomly shouting “cattywampus!” to each other for the rest of the trip.

Mansaf, a Traditional dish from Jordan

Mansaf from Jordan

Which brings me to Mansaf, another new word for me and one that I learned on a recent trip to Jordan. (Here are the Best Things to do in Jordan in 7 days)

I love visiting the Middle East – it’s so different in sensibility to anywhere else in the world, and the people in Jordan and other parts of the Middle East that I’ve visited, like Oman and Dubai, are among the world’s friendliest.

Mansaf is the name of the national Jordanian dish, and it is a dish of meat (be it beef, lamb or chicken) cooked until fork-tender and coated in a rich yogurt sauce spiced with Baharat spices.

There is a finely ground mix of spices usually comprised of black pepper, cardamom, all spice, cassia or cinnamon, cloves, coriander, paprika and sometimes mint or rose petals.

Baharat is actually the Arabic word for spices and versions vary somewhat between areas, but the mainstay to all Baharat spice mixes is ground black pepper. Baharat is used to spice meat and fish and imparts a heady, harmonious mix of spices to the meat of your choice.

Mansaf Recipe

An Original Recipe by Not Quite Nigella:

  • 750g/1.65 lbs. beef, lamb diced or chicken in pieces
  • 2 cups rice
  • 1/3 cup slivered almonds or pine nuts, toasted
  • 4 tablespoons ground almonds
  • 1 tablespoon Baharat spices
  • 400ml/14.1 fl. ozs. natural yogurt
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • salt and pepper
  • 1 large round of pita  bread
  • 1/2 cup fresh parsley and 1/4 pomegranate
beef pieces mansaf

The Method:

ingredients cooking on a stove
ingredients being mixed

1. In a pot, boil the meat in enough salted water to cover it for two hours. Or I use a pressure cooker on medium strength for 30 minutes to cook the meat.

2. Meanwhile, cook the rice according to directions.

3. When the meat has about half an hour to go, heat a dry frypan on medium heat. Add the ground almonds and Baharat spices and stir, toasting both until they are aromatic. Then add the yogurt and stir in one direction – I was told not to change directions or it will curdle. Add the egg and stir it through.

4. Drain the meat from the water – it should be very tender. Stir it through the yogurt mix and coat the pieces. Season with salt and ground pepper.

5. Place a piece of pita bread on a plate.

6. Top with rice and then the yogurt beef. Top with the toasted nuts and chop the parsley and add on top of this along with the pomegranate seeds.

[ybox_title]AUTHOR BIO:[/ybox_title]

Lorraine Elliott is the founder and publisher of the popular food blog Not Quite Nigella. A former Advertising Media Strategist, she began the blog in September of 2007 after repeated suggestions from friends and family. She has been blogging full time since January 2009. The blog features a new story daily with topics ranging from recipes, restaurant reviews, chef interviews, travel stories or store visits.

Her blog has 250,000 unique readers per month, and is the most popular food and travel blog in Australia. She lives in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs with her food apathetic husband and her collection of 140 pairs of shoes. She wishes that she could sing.

Why do you travel and what’s your favourite part of travelling?

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Visiting the Western Wall in Israel https://www.ytravelblog.com/visiting-the-western-wall-in-israel/ https://www.ytravelblog.com/visiting-the-western-wall-in-israel/#comments Fri, 13 Jan 2012 03:24:54 +0000 https://www.ytravelblog.com/?p=15868 Visiting the Western Wall in Israel Read More »

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By Liz from L’appel du Vide

Jerusalem is a city divided. Claimed by four very distinct religious and cultural groups, the city is full of beauty, conflict and history.

As you walk around the old city you can’t help but feel that very brick is steeped in very powerful cultural significance.

And in no place is this cultural collusion more evident then at the Western Wall plaza where the Jewish Holy site of the Western Wall sits almost literally in the Shadow of the Islamic Dome of the Rock.
visiting the Western wall in israel

From this one location you can observe the site that two major world religions claim as holy in their own religious traditions – as well as the resulting uneasiness from sharing the sacred space.

Visiting the western wall

The Western Wall Plaza sits on the opposite end of the walled city from the main entrance, Jaffa Gate. To traverse the city you must wander through the winding souks and narrow alleys, but it’s not hard to find.

Everyone you ask knows where the Western Wall is and half the people are going there themselves.

You can’t just walk into the Western Wall plaza. Although entrance is free and open to anyone, you must first wait in the security line where your bags will be checked before you are sent through the metal detectors.

It’s a weird merging of old world and new world – official signs indicate that rabbis have determined that the use of these metal detectors do not violate Shabbat (a day in which use of electricity is forbidden).

the western wall israel

The Western Wall plaza is divided into three sections. One area is for observers, socializers and passerbyers, the other two closer to the wall are for prayer – one for men, and one much smaller area for women.

Visitors are allowed in the prayer area, but you must only enter your designated area. It’s important to be respectful of the religious significance of the site. Although picture taking seems to be tolerated, loud talking, laughing or other disruptions are not.

The religiously devout do not turn their backs on the wall, instead they slowly back away as they finish their prayers.

western wall israel

Another tradition of the Western Wall, is leaving prayers in notes in the cracks between the large stones. Hundreds upon thousands of these notes are stuck in every crevice.

At one point I saw a man prying the notes out with a long metal pole – I asked why they were being removed and was told that because of the many visitors, the notes must periodically be cleaned out. They are then buried along with other religious objects.

visiting the western wall Israel

As with most places of religious significance, you are expected to dress modestly when visiting the Western Wall Plaza. This is easy enough to do, except that the Western Wall Plaza is also sometimes the most convenient way to cut through the city.

We got caught in our work out gear on the way to the City Wall Walk and were given modesty skirts to borrow as we walked through.

visiting the western wall

But visiting the wall section in the Plaza is only half the story.

The Wall is actually the remains of a retaining wall from the old Jewish Temple. Only a small portion if it is still exposed today. The rest is buried underground. Part of the underground wall has been excavated and it’s now possible to visit it via a guided tour.

Away from the light and the sounds of the Western Wall plaza, the ancient wall takes on a whole new significance. The stones tower over you as you walk through the narrow passages – passages which are filled with the faithful as they pray.

You must arrange the tours in advance online, but they are well worth it to see another side of the wall. The guides are all very knowledgeable about the religious significance and Jewish history surrounding the wall.

Liz is a 20-something living in Washington, D.C., and trying to see the world one country at a time. Right now she is only a part time traveler since she is still a full time “try and and make the rent”-er. Check out her blog  L’appel du Vide or follow her on twitter.

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